Colombia - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 506

5

Ráquira
Tiny Ráquira , 25km from Villa de Leyva
to the west, is famous countrywide for its
pottery. If you're looking for crafts to take
home, besides perusing the many pottery
workshops, you can raid the craft shops
around the main square for hammocks,
jewellery, woodcarvings and ponchos.
Sunday is market day and a particularly
good time to visit. Ráquira can be
reached by bus from Villa de Leyva
(4-5 daily; 45min) or by taxi (around
COP$35,000 one-way).

natural spring-fed swimming pool, and
the entrance fee gets you a wristband that
means you can go in and out of the park
all day. To get here, head to the river and
turn left along the Malecón to its end.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus San Gil has several bus stations, though the main
terminal is around 2km southwest of town; a taxi to the
centre costs around COP$3500. Buses to Barichara (every
30min; 45min) leave from the terminal at C 15 and Cra 10,
while Bucaramanga-bound buses (every 30min; 2hr
30min) leave from the terminal at Cra 11 and C 8, and
Bogotá-bound buses depart from the main terminal
(several daily; 6-8hr).

SAN GIL
An adventure-sports hotspot, SAN GIL is
one of the biggest backpacker draws in
northern Colombia. The compact town
is a premier destination for white-water
rafting and paragliding, as well as other
outdoorsy activities that take place in
the surrounding countryside, and also
for day-trips to quiet colonial Barichara.
For those craving a spot of culinary
adventure, fried hormigas culonas , or
fat-bottomed ants, a Santander delicacy,
can be bought from a few places around
town including the market and the street
by the river.
San Gil's main attractions lie outside
town, but if you want a quiet moment in
between adventures, make your way to
the large riverside Parque El Gallineral
(8am-5.30pm; COP$5000), its trees
atmospherically festooned with tendrils
of “old man's beard” moss. There's a

ACCOMMODATION
Ì Macondo Guesthouse C 8 No. 10-35 T 7 724 8001,
W macondohostel.com. Australian-owned Macondo has a
homey, laidback atmosphere, with guests relaxing in the
jacuzzi after an adrenaline-packed day. An excellent place
to organize your outdoor adventures, and with all the
backpacker-fr iendly c reature comf orts to boot. Dorms
COP$18,000 ,doubles COP$46,000
La Mansión de Sam Gil C 12 No. 8-71 T 7 724 6044,
W hotelmansionsangil.com. There's no stopping Sam of
Sam's VIP (see below): this colonial mansion on the corner
of Parque Central features attractive singles and doubles
arranged around a centr al courtyard. There's a decent
gastropub downstairs too. COP$50,000
Sam's VIP Cra 10 No. 12-33 T 7 724 2746, W samshostel
.com. This lively hostel with particularly attractive decor
has a balcony overlooking the main square, poker table
and even a small swimming pool. Dorms are on the small
side, but there's a superb guest kitchen a nd the double
rooms d ownstairs are great value. Dorms COP$17,000 ,
doubles COP$50,000

ADVENTURE SPORTS
Adrenaline junkies are spoilt for choice by the array of adventure sports on offer in San Gil. There
are two main white-water rafting routes: a hair-raising day-trip down the Class IV/V (depends on
the season) Río Suarez costs about COP$130,000, while a more sedate half-day on the Río Fonce is
COP$35,000. Abseiling down the Juan Curí waterfalls will set you back COP$40,000, or you can
take flight with a tandem paraglide (COP$65,000-175,000 depending on location). Spelunkers
have the choice of several caves to explore (around COP$25,000). Other sporty options include
kayaking, horseriding and extreme mountain biking.
Most accommodation can arrange any of the above, and you should pay the same as if you
book direct. The staff at Macondo Guesthouse are particularly helpful if you're trying to decide
what to opt for. Alternatively, recommended operators are:
Colombian Bike Junkies C 12 No. 8-35 T 316 327
6101, W colombianbikejunkies.com.
Colombia Rafting Expediciones Cra 10 No. 7-83

T 311 283 8647, W colombiarafting.com.
Páramo Santander Extremo Cra 4 No. 4-57 T 7 725
8944, W www.paramosantanderextremo.com.