Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 472

museoantropologicomartingusinde.cl),
is named after a German clergyman
and anthropologist who spent 22
months among the native tribes of
Tierra del Fuego between 1918 and
1924. Located on the west side of town,
it features informative and well-laid-out
displays on the native Kawéskar,
Selk'nam and Yámana Indians, complete
with a replica of a Selk'nam ritual hut,
as well as exhibits on local geology,
flora and fauna.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By plane The tiny airport receiving Aerovías DAP flights
from Punta Arenas lies a short distance from Puerto
Williams; flights are met by local minivans that double as
taxis (CH$2000). Aerovías DAP has its o ce at Centro
Comercial Sur 151 ( W aeroviasdap.cl).
By boat A popular (but not cheap) way to reach Puerto
Williams is from the Argentine city of Ushuaia (Sept-
March, depending on the weather; 30min; one-way
US$65-125, plus US$23 fee for Ushuaia departures and
US$10 for Navarino); Zodiac boats via Zenit Explorer (depart
Ushuaia daily at 8.30am, return 4.30pm; W zenitexplorer.
com.ar) and Ushuaia Boating (Mon-Sat 9.30am-10am;
W ushuaiaboating.com.ar) cross the Beagle Channel and
dock at tiny Puerto Navarino where visitors have to check
in with Chilean immigration authorities; minibus transfers
take passengers to their residenciales in Puerto Williams,
an hour's drive (52km) across the island (another US$20;
allow 90min for whole trip). The boats do not sail in
extreme conditions, so be prepared to spend an extra day
or two on either side of the channel.
By ferry The Transbordadora Austral Broom ferry ( T 61
621015, W tabsa.cl) sails to Punta Arenas (every Sat night;
seat/berth US$186/258; 38hr).
Tourist information Inside the Municipalidad on
O'Higgins (Mon-Fri 8.30am-1pm & 2.30-5pm). Check
out W imcabodehornos.cl for more information. The post

o ce is located inside the Centro Comercial, by Plaza
O'Higgins; Banco de Chile has a global ATM on a narrow
passageway towards the waterfront from the Centro
Comercial.

W

ACCOMMODATION
Hostal Bella Vista Te n i e n t e Muñoz 118 T 61 621010,
W victory-cruises.com. Hostel with incredible views of
the Beagle Channel, run by an American-Chilean family.
Warm rooms (some en suite), with laundry service, wi-fi
and discounts at the internet café and the minimart.
Sailing trips to Cape Horn and Antarctica o n their yacht
S/V Victory are on offer. Doubles CH$17,500
Hospedaje Akainij Austral 22 T 61 621173, W turismo
akainij.cl. Simple but calm and cosy guesthouse, with
single, double and triple rooms, private bat hroom, wi-fi, fi,
satellite TV and breakfast included. Doubles CH$28,000
Refugio al Padrino Costanera 276 T 61 621136,
E [e-mail]. Barebones but snug
backpacker joint, with friendly owner, comfy bunks, shared
kitchen, wood-bur ning stove and info on bike rentals and
horseriding. Dorms CH10,000
Residencial Pusaki Piloto Pardo 222 T 61 621116,
E [e-mail]. Another backpacker favourite
run by an extremely hospitable family (try Patty's king
crab sou é; see below), this hostel has warm, cosy rooms
with s hared bath as well as a common lou nge and kitchen.
Dorms CH$12,000 , doubles CH$26,000

4

EATING AND DRINKING
Micalvi Costanera s/n. This former Navy ship is a nightly
gathering point for travellers, local sailors and Antarctic
explorers; open late. Drinks are not cheap, but the conge-
nial atmosphere and bizarre location make up for it. Nov-
March Mon-Sat 9pm-2am.
Ì Residencial Pusaki Piloto Pardo 222 T 61 621116.
Even if you're not a guest here, give the owner a couple
of hours' warning and come try some of her delicious
home cooking at dinnertime; centolla night is the best,
when Patty makes filling king-crab stew. CH$7000.

ISLA NAVARINO TOUR OPERATORS
Outdoor activities on and around Isla Navarino tend to be on the expensive side and not for
the faint-hearted, but if you've had fantasies about yachting to Cape Horn or tackling some of
the most challenging hiking in Latin America, several experienced tour operators in Puerto
Williams can help you realize your dream.
SIM Expeditions Casilla 6 W simexpeditions.com.
Intrepid German-Venezuelan operator organizing
hiking and horseriding on Isla Navarino and Cordillera
Darwin, as well as sea-kayaking trips and multi-day
yacht excursions around Cape Horn and even to South
Georgia and Antarctica.

Turismo Shila O'Higgins 322 T 09 78972005,
W turismoshila.cl. Luis and family run trekking trips
around Isla Navarino (including the Dientes circuit)
and fishing excursions to Lago Windhond, Lago
Navarino and Laguna Rojas; they also rent outdoor
gear.