Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 470

hours and there is a clear track that
crosses a bridge over the Río Asencio just
before you reach the Hostería Las Torres .

the bus past Lago Pehoé, get off at the
Park Administration, and do the scenic
five-hour walk before commencing on
the Circuit (this is called “doing the Q”).
Alternatively, you can follow the trail
directly from Laguna Amarga , from where
it's a mostly flat five-hour hike along
Río Paine to Camping Serón . You can also
pick up the trail from the Hostería Las
Torres . Since there is only one refugio
along the Circuit, you will have to stop
at unserviced campsites most of the way,
bringing food and camping supplies with
you - most people opt for an organized
hike with a guide (see box, p.470).

Mirador Las Torres
To see the sunrise at the famous Mirador
Las Torres , some make their way up the
Valle Ascencio from the Hostería Las
Torres the night before, spending the night
at the basic, unserviced Campamento
Torres . The hike itself is a steep, three-hour
thirty-minute ascent alongside the
Río Ascencio. You'll need to rise before
daybreak to tackle the steepest part of
the journey - an hour-long scramble up
boulders - to witness the spectacle of the
sun's first rays colouring the magnificent
Torres, perfectly reflected in the still
waters of Laguna Torres . Alternatively, you
can break your journey by staying at the
Refugio y Camping Chileno , halfway up
the trail. Or take the hike further up the
Valle Ascencio to Campamento Japonés ,
then up another steep yet spectacular
climb along the aptly named Valle del
Silencio to a less-visited mirador . he “W”
ends with a short trek or minibus ride
from Hostería Las Torres back to Laguna
Amarga and the park entrance.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By bus Buses from Puerto Natales stop at the Laguna
Amarga park administration building (2hr 15min), then at
Pudeto (the catamaran departure point; 3hr 15min) and
finally at the Administration building (4hr 15min). Out of
season, when the catamaran is no longer running, the
buses stop first at Administration and then at Laguna
Amarga. Minibus transfers (CH$2500) meet the buses at
Laguna Amarga and run to Refugio y Camping Las Torres .
By ferry A Hielos Patagónicos catamaran ( T 61 411380;
CH$12,000 one-way, CH$19,000 return) crosses Lago
Pehoé from Pudeto, returning from Paine Grande 30min
later. Pudeto departures are at 9.30am, noon and 6pm
(Nov 16-March 15); noon & 6pm (March 16-March 31 &
Oct 16-Nov 15); or noon only (Oct 1-Oct 15 & April 1-
April 30); there is no service the rest of the year.
Conaf The Conaf guardería at Laguna Amarga has basic
information on the park's fauna and flora, as well as basic
trekking maps. You must register and pay your CH$18,000/
8,000 peak/off-peak entrance fee here. Ranger stations at
Lago Sarmiento, Laguna Azul, Lago Grey and Laguna Verde
also have basic information on the park. The Conaf-run
Centro de Visitantes (Dec-Feb daily 8.30am-8pm; T 61
691931) at the Lago del Toro Park Administration building
has small displays on the park fauna and flora.

4

The “Circuit”
The “Circuit” is an extended version of
the “W”, a seven- to ten-day hike that
leads you around the back of the Torres,
giving you respite from the inevitable
crowds during peak season, and offering
unique glimpses of the park, which you
may be able to experience in complete
solitude. You can either start from the
Paine Grande Lodge and head straight
for the Valle Francés, or you can stay on

REFUGIOS IN TORRES DEL PAINE
Most of the park's campsites and refugios are open only from September to May. Some basic
refugios are run by Conaf, but most of the decent sites belong either to Vertice Patagonia or
Fantástico Sur, both in Puerto Natales (see p.467). At these refugios you can rent bedding
(CH$17,000-26,500 for a basic bed; camping CH$3500/person) and enjoy pricey hot meals
(around CH$6000 for breakfast, CH$8000 for lunch and CH$10,500 for dinner). Try to book your
refugio space in advance, especially in the peak season from December to February. You can
rent camping equipment at most serviced sites: tents CH$7000; sleeping bags CH$5500; mats
CH$1500. There are several unserviced campsites in the park which are free of charge and
consist of a clearing with a fire pit; these include Campamento Paso , Campamento Italiano ,
Campamento Británico and Campamento Torres . Wild camping inside the park is not permitted.