Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 467

rocky outcrop with a spectacular close-up
of the glacier's gigantic ice crystals. The
hike lasts three or four hours; Refugio y
Camping Grey marks the end of the first
leg of the “W”, from where you either
double back to Lago Pehoé or continue
north if doing the “Circuit” (see p.474).

HIKING THE “W”
Though Torres del Paine offers numerous
hiking trails, the most popular is
undoubtedly the “W”, a four- to five-day
hike that takes in the park's highlights: the
massive Glacier Grey, steep Valle Francés
and, finally, the mirador Las Torres. It
makes sense to hike the “W” from west to
east, tackling the steepest ascent first,
especially if you're carrying camping gear,
as you will have eaten most of your
provisions by the time you approach the
challenging mirador , and will have grown
used to the rigours of the hike.

Valle Francés
Back at the Paine Grande Lodge , a
two-hour-long, eastbound trail heads
through scrubland and prickly calafate
bushes along Lago Pehoé before leading
north with glimpses of Lago Skottsberg on
your right-hand side. As you round the
imposing 3050m Paine Grande massif,
look up, as there is a known condor nest
near the peak. A wobbly hanging bridge
brings you to the Campamento Italiano ,
where you can leave most of your gear
before scrambling up the steep rocky path
leading up the Valle Francés , the middle
part of the “W”. The turbulent Río del
Francés churns on your left-hand side and
there are spectacular views of Glacier
Francés and Glacier Los Perros.
After two hours hiking through
enchanted-looking woods, you reach
the very basic Campamento Británico ,
from where it's an hour's hike up to the
steep lookout that gives you an excellent
close-up view of the multicoloured
Los Cuernos, rising from dense forest
to the east, as well as the aptly named
2800m-high Fortaleza (“fortress”),
northeast of the mirador . he descent can
be somewhat treacherous, so hiking poles
are useful. From Campamento Italiano ,
allow two hours for the hike through the
forested backcountry to the Refugio y
Camping Los Cuernos ; it's a long, steep
descent on a scree-strewn trail followed
by a brief stretch along the pale blue
waters of Lago Nordenskjöld.

Glacier Grey
From the pier at the Paine Grande Lodge ,
a clearly marked trail runs north through
the scrubland, past a small lagoon and into
a lenga forest, crisscrossed with narrow,
icy streams. The trail meanders before
emerging at the Quebrada de los Vientos
(“Windy Gorge”), an hour or so into the
hike, where your first glimpse of Glacier
Grey stops you in your tracks. For the next
couple of hours, you walk across exposed
terrain, beside the pale water of Lago Grey
and its house-sized chunks of blue ice. The
glacier peeks from behind the dark rock of
La Isla Nunatak on the lake's far side.
The trail then descends steeply through
the silent lenga woods, almost doubling
back on itself and crossing a wooden
bridge over a gushing torrent, before
emerging on the lakeshore. Ten minutes
before arriving at a shaded lakeside
clearing housing the Refugio y Camping
Grey , another short trail branches off
from the main path, leading you to a

4

LAGO GREY BY BOAT
From the Hostería Lago Grey it's possible
to take a spectacular three-hour boat ride
up Lago Grey to Glacier Grey (Nov-March;
daily 8am, noon & 3pm; CH$45,000,
minimum 8 people; check ahead for the
current departure times). If short of time
you can also hike the easy 2.2km trail along
the beach to see the icebergs and the
glacier looming in the distance - climb the
cliff trail for the best views. Note, however,
there is no public transport to Lago Grey.

Los Cuernos to Las Torres
From the refugio , the trail runs through
hilly scrubland, crossing several small
streams, with Lago Nordenskjöld on
your right. Shortly after you depart Los
Cuernos, you come to the Río del Valle
Bader , a rushing glacial stream that can
be difficult to cross without hiking poles.
This sector of the hike takes around four