Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By plane Aeropuerto Presidente Ibáñez is 20km north
of town. Flights are met by Buses Fernández (CH$3000)
and taxis (CH$8000; CH$9000 at night). LAN (Mon-Fri
9.15am-1pm & 3-6.45pm, Sat 10am-1pm) and Sky
Airline offer daily flights to Santiago, Puerto Montt
and Balmaceda/Coyhaique, but not Ushuaia. Aerovías
DAP (Mon-Fri 9am-12.30pm & 2.30-6.45pm, Sat
9am-1pm & 3-6pm; W aeroviasdap.cl) has flights to
Puerto Williams (Mon-Sat 10am; 1hr 15min) and
Porvenir (Mon-Sat 2-3 daily; 12min), as well as charter
flights to Antarctica.
By bus There is no central bus station (despite the
name, the Central de Buses on Av Colón, at Magallanes,
T 61 245811, is just an o ce selling tickets for several
companies), though all buses arrive within four or five
blocks of the Plaza de Armas. Note that if you are taking
a bus to Ushuaia (see p.144) it's crucial to book ahead in
the summer and there may be a long wait to cross the
Magellan Straits if the sea is rough (the ferries and buses
simply wait till things calm down, sometimes up to 5
hours; ferries run daily 8.30am-11.45pm; CH$13,900/car,
CH$1600/person, included in bus fare); try to get some
Argentine pesos before you leave, as there is nowhere to
change money at the border, and make sure you have
accommodation booked in advance.
Destinations Buses Pacheco (Colón 900) to: Río Grande
(Mon-Sat 9am; 8hr 30min; CH$17,000), where you can
connect with Ushuaia buses - the bus goes direct on Tues,
Thurs & Sun (CH$27,000); Río Gallegos (Mon, Wed, Thurs
& Sun 11.30am; 5-7hr); Buses Fernández (Sanhueza 745)
to: Puerto Natales (8 daily; 3hr; CH$5000); Bus Sur to:
Ushuaia (Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat at 8.30am; 12-14hr;
CH$30,000); Río Gallegos (daily 11am; 5-7hr); Puerto
Natales, with connections to Torre del Paine (daily 10am,
3pm, 5.15pm & 7pm; 3hr; CH$4000); Pullman (Colón 568)
to: Osorno and Puerto Montt (Mon, Wed & Fri 9am;
34-36hr); Buses Ghisoni (Navarro 971) to: Río Gallegos
(Mon, Wed, Thurs, Fri & Sat 11am; 5-7hr; CH$9000);
Ushuaia (Wed & Sat 8.30am; 12-14hr); Tecni Austral
(Navarro 975) to: Ushuaia (12-14hr; from CH$25,000) via
Río Grande (8hr 30min; CH$15,000) Tues, Thurs & Sun.
By ferry Ferries from Puerto Williams and Porvenir arrive
at the Terminal Tres Puentes 5km north of the plaza;
frequent colectivos (CH$800) shuttle between the docks
and the centre. Transbordadora Austral Broom, at Juan
Williams 6450 (Mon-Fri 8.30am-12.15pm & 2-6.15pm;
T 61 728100, W tabsa.cl), operates ferries to Puerto
Williams (Wed only; US$258 for a berth, US$186 for a
Pullman seat; 28hr, subject to weather conditions) and
Porvenir (1 daily; 2hr 30min; CH$5500).
Tourist o ce There's a tourist information kiosk on the
south side of Plaza Muñoz Gamero, but this was being
renovated at the time of writing; your best bet is the
helpful and well-stocked Sernatur o ce at Navarro 999,
at Pedro Montt (April-Sept Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm; Oct-
March Mon-Fri 8.30am-8pm, Sat & Sun 9am-1pm &
2-6pm; T 61 24130).
ACCOMMODATION
Backpackers' Paradise Ignacio Carrera Pinto 1022
T 61 240104, E backpackersparadise@hotmail.com. Run
by an effusive hostess and perpetually popular with
younger travellers, this hostel offers very cheap bunks
in two large, open-plan rooms. Laundry service, free hot
drinks, secure luggage storage, kitchen facilities, internet
access an d bike rentals are among the extras. Dorms
CH$6000
El Conventillo Korner 1034 T 61 242311, W hostal
elconventillo.com. Spotlessly clean bathrooms and cosy
dorms for 4-6 people. Use of fridge and microwave in
kitchen, but otherwise not really a self-catering option.
Breakfast included, free wi-fi (one computer for shared
use), c able TV in l lounge and welcome pisco sour on arrival.
Dorms CH$8500
Hostal La Estancia O'Higgins 765 T 61 249130,
W estancia.cl. At this perpetually popular hostel, you're well
looked after by the bilingual Alex and Carmen, who can
arrange your outdoor adventures. The restored 1920s house
has spacious rooms and comfortable co mmon area s. Book in
advance, eve in in the off-season. Dorms CH$12,000 , doubles
CH$30,000
Hospedaje Independencia Independencia 374 T 61
227572, W chileaustral.com/independencia. This hostel,
six blocks from the centre, is popular with hikers and
bikers; there's a homely feel to the rooms, which are
small but warm and comfortable (shared bathroom). The
friendly young family has camping spaces in their front
yard (use of bathroom included) and rent camping
equipment; they also organize tours of the are a and let
you use thei r kitchen. Camping/person CH$2000 , doubles
CH$10,000
Ì Imago Mundi Mejicana 252 T 61 613115, W imago
mundipatagonia.cl. Environmentally conscious travellers
and outdoor junkies alike flock to this popular little hostel
run by a brother-sister team. There are just eight cosy bunk
beds in two en-suite rooms, as well as an on-site climbing
gym for pros and beginners alike, an excellent café (full-
board is possible) and an attache d cultural ce ntre that
often featur es live music. Dorms CH$10,000 , doubles
CH$25,000
Hostel Keokén Magallanes 209 T 61 244086, W hostel
keoken.cl. Comfortable rooms (en suite and shared bath),
a book exchange and kitchen privileges are all on offer at
this welcoming family-run guesthouse a few blocks from
the plaza. English, French and Italian are spoken and the
owners can help you with further trav el arrangements.
Doubles (shared bathroom) CH$22,000
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