Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 457

VILLA O'HIGGINS
Continuing south to VILLA O'HIGGINS ,
a cluster of wooden houses huddled
against a sheer mountain face, the
Carretera Austral narrows to a single lane,
ribboning its way around hairpin bends
with sheer drops and spectacular vistas
of glacial rivers cutting through endless
forest. Once here, there are two choices:
turn back, or cross the lake into
Argentina. You are likely to linger longer
than intended, partly because of the
scarcity of public transport, and partly
to enjoy the relaxed pace of life,
small-town hospitality and the hiking
and horseriding opportunities the rugged
scenery provides.
The town is built on a simple grid
around the Plaza de Armas. The Carretera
Austral runs along the western side of
the village all the way down to the boat
landing on Lago O'Higgins , 7km away.
A footpath off Calle Lago Cisnes runs
through Parque Cerro Santiago up to
a mirador overlooking the village; from
there, the path continues on towards the

ice “tongue” of the Ventisquero Mosco ,
the nearest hanging glacier, though
the trail is sometimes impassable.
Several glaciers, including the pristine
Ventisquero O'Higgins , spill into Lago
O'Higgins, but these can only be accessed
via boat trips in the summer (Nov-April).
Robinson Crusoe ( T 67 431821,
W

hielosur.com), Carretera Austral
Km1240, has up-to-date timetables for
the Lago O'Higgins crossing (see box
below) as well as boat trips to the glaciers
(from CH$80,000/person).

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By plane Transportes Aéreos Don Carlos has charter
flights from Coyhaique (Mon & Thurs 9am, return 11am;
1hr 15min; around CH$50,000) to the airstrip just to the
west of town.
By bus There is no direct bus between Coyhaique and
Villa O'Higgins - you need to change in Cochrane. Buses
Acuario 13 runs from Cochrane Sun and Thurs at 8am
(CH$12,000 one-way; 7hr) to the Supermercado San
Gabriel on C Lago O'Higgins, returning on Mon and Fri at
10am; buy tickets in advance from the Supermercado, as
the bus is usually full.

4

TO ARGENTINA
The 130km border crossing between Villa O'Higgins and Argentina's El Chaltén is still remote
and challenging, yet more and more hardy travellers are prepared to take on the lake crossing,
followed by a strenuous hike over the border. The sixty-passenger Quetru leaves Bahía
Bahamóndez at 8.30am (Dec Wed & Sat; Jan-Feb Mon, Wed & Sat; Nov & March Sat only;
CH$40,000; excursion Glaciar O'Higgins an extra CH$25,000) and arrives at the hamlet of
Candelario Mancilla at around 11.15am. Here there's no-frills accommodation (doubles
CH$6000) and basic camping spots with no facilities, and you'll get your passport stamped by
Chilean border control . Beyond, a wide gravel track runs slightly uphill through patches of
woodland to the international border; on the way, you will either have to ford the shallow,
glacial Río Obstáculo , or cross it on some rickety planks. Beyond the border, the 7.5km stretch
of trail to the Argentine border control on the banks of the Laguna del Desierto becomes
a narrow, muddy footpath snaking its way through hilly forest and scrubland; cyclists have to
push and sometimes carry their bikes.
After being stamped into Argentina, you can either pitch a tent at Camping Laguna del
Desierto (CH$2500/person), catch the Huemul motor launch across the lake from Punta Norte
(daily at 1.30pm, 4.45pm & 6.30pm; 30-45min; CH$13,000, bicycles CH$5000 extra) or hike
the remaining 15km (5hr) along a thickly forested path on the left side of the lake, emerging at
the guardería by the pier on the south side. Minibuses to El Chaltén meet the arriving boats
at Punta Sur, the last one leaving for town at 7.30pm (CH$13,000) and arriving around 9pm.
While it is possible to complete the border crossing in a day, boat schedules are weather-
dependent, so pack enough food for several days. To book a guide and pack horses
(CH$20,000 per pack horse), and for up-to-date information on the trek, visit the helpful
website W villaohiggins.com.
Do the crossing while you can: there are plans to make it more accessible by creating a proper
road between the lakes and using larger boats to carry vehicles, which, while making it easier to
go from Villa O'Higgins to Puerto Natales, will destroy the frontier feel that currently exists.