Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget

Travel Reference

In-Depth Information

PUERTO CHACABUCO AND

PUERTO AYSÉN

The port and ferry terminal of

PUERTO CHACABUCO lies 82km west

of Coyhaique, and 16km south of

PUERTO AYSÉN . While the road to the

two ports cuts through the stupendous

scenery of the Reserva Nacional Río

Simpson , there is little to see in the towns

themselves. If you're planning on taking

a trip to Laguna San Rafael , however, you

have little choice but to spend a night or

two here due to the early departure and

late arrival of the catamaran.

ACCOMMODATION

Residencial El Puerto O'Higgins 80 T 67 351147. Worn

but che ap rooms with shared bathroom and breakfast.

Doubles CH$8000

Café Confluencia 25 de Mayo 548 T 67 245080. The

menu at this arty bistro actually features fresh vegetables,

not to mention imaginative dishes, such as ají relleno

(stuffed hot pepper) and Spanish-style tortillas. Huge

range of teas, decent coffees and stronger drinks on

offer. On Fridays and Saturdays, live music kicks off at

11pm. Menú del día CH$5500, sandwiches from CH$3000.

Smoking allowed (but non-smoking room available).

Sun-Thurs 10am-11pm, Fri & Sat 10am-2am.

Café Ricer Horn 48 T 67 244917. Perch on a sheepskin-

covered chair at this gringo-friendly wi-fi-enabled café-

restaurant and enjoy ample portions of Chilean staples

(chicken with peas, or shredded beef with merkén , a

Mapuche chilli seasoning), sandwiches and pasta - they

also serve local beers. It's all competently cooked and filling,

with most mains CH$4000-5000. Daily 10am-11.30pm.

La Casona Obispo Vielmo 77 T 67 423365. In a quiet

residential area and popular with both tour groups and

locals, this white-linen restaurant counts delicious grilled

lamb and pastél de jaiba (crab sou é) among its

specialities. Mains from CH$6000. Mon-Sat noon-3pm &

7.30pm-midnight, Sun noon-3pm & 8pm-midnight.

Mamma Gaucha Horn 47 T 67 210721, W mamma

gaucha.cl. The pizzas at this congenial Italian-themed

place are so-so (CH$4400-7900) but it's a good place to

grab a beer at all hours: draught Austral (from CH$1200),

local brews such as D'Olbeck (CH$2000) and Kunstmann

(CH$2000), though they can sometimes run out - check

before sitting down. Mon-Sat 10am-2am.

Piel Roja Moraleda 495 T 67 244 917, W pielroja.cl. An

excellent spot for a beer and snack, this lively pub with

a quirky interior serves up good burgers and quesadillas.

Strut your stuff on the upstairs dancefloor (bar and disco

open until 4am). Daily 6pm-4am.

LAGUNA SAN RAFAEL

If you only see one glacier in Latin

America, make it Laguna San Rafael ,

200km southeast of Coyhaique and

only accessible by boat or plane . It is

estimated that in the next twenty years

or so it will be completely gone.

As you pass through the tight squeeze

of Río Témpanos (“Iceberg River”), and

sail past the silent, densely forested shores

of the long, narrow inner passage of

Estero Elefantes , you catch numerous

glimpses of marine wildlife. Nearing the

impossibly huge glacier, over 4km in

width and 60m in height, the boat

dodges massive bobbing icebergs, some

the size of small houses. From time to

time you'll hear a loud crack as a massive

slab of blue ice calves from the glacier

face, temporarily disturbing the still

waters. Most boat trips allow the

passengers to get close to the glacier in

inflatable Zodiacs , and one of the trip's

highlights is drinking whisky on the rocks

- using the millennia-old ice, of course.

Catamaranes del Sur ( T 67 351112,

W catamaranesdelsur.cl) run high-speed

catamaran day-trips (4-5hr each way)

from Puerto Chacabuco's Hotel Loberías del

Sur to the glacier (Dec-Feb Tues & Sat;

fewer days Sept-Nov & March-April

7.30am-10pm; US$299); book several

weeks in advance through a travel agent

such as Chile Tours ( W chile-tours.com).

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