Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE BEST OF AYSÉN BY BUS
Aysén is a vast, remote region but potentially one of the most rewarding in the whole of
South America for travellers - the landscapes here are truly mesmerizing. To do it justice
you'll need to take at least two weeks and rent a car, preferably a 4WD - not a cheap
proposition. However, you can still get a taster of the region by bus, though there are no
services from Puerto Montt south along the Carretera Austral: buses from central Chile
all make the journey to Coyhaique through Argentina via Osorno and Bariloche (figure
on at least CH$30,000 from Puerto Montt). If you are determined to travel north-south
without doubling back, take a Naviera Austral ferry from Castro to Chaitén (see p.452), or
take a bus to Futaleufú (see p.456) from the Argentine side, and head south from either
place. Once in Coyhaique, which is also accessible by plane or ferry (see p.458), you can
take buses up or down the Carretera Austral, stopping along the way, though it's crucial to
confirm bus times in advance as they often change. Here are the highlights (assuming a
Coyhaique start):
NORTH OF COYHAIQUE
Reserva Nacional Río Simpson On the road to Puerto Aysén, 37km from Coyhaique, this
scenic gorge of craggy cliffs and plunging waterfalls is best experienced on a long day-trip
from Coyhaique. Take any bus to Aysén and ask to get off at Cascada de la Virgin, 1km from the
Conaf park o ce, or the thunderous Velo de la Novia, 8km further on - check when the return
buses are due to pass by and flag them down (you'll have to hitch back otherwise - safe and
not so unusual here). Reckon on CH$1000 for the bus.
Parque Nacional Queulat A five-hour bus ride north of Coyhaique lies this little-explored
national park, its crowning feature the stunning Ventisquero Colgante (CH$3500), or
“hanging glacier”, a frozen blue-white mass spilling over a rock face, while a mighty waterfall
fed by the melting ice roars into the Laguna Los Tempanos below. You can stay at the fully
equipped campsite ( T 67 314250; CH$3500/person) by the guardería at the park's southern
entrance. There is no public transport to the glacier; you can ask any northbound bus to
drop you off at the park entrance (around CH$7000 from Coyhaique), though it can be
di cult to flag them down afterwards. Alternatively, aim to stay in Puyuhuapi and arrange
a visit from there.
Puyuhuapi This beautifully located village was founded by Germans in the 1930s: reckon on
CH$8000 for the bus fare from Coyhaique. The main attraction is the posh hot springs nearby
( W patagonia-connection.com) but a cheaper option is the Termas Ventisquero, 6km south of
town (Dec-Feb daily 9am-11pm; CH$12,000).
Futaleufú Rafting capital of the Americas. From here there are buses across to Argentina
(Esquel), or on to Chaitén, where there is a ferry to Castro (see p.452) in January and February.
SOUTH OF COYHAIQUE
Laguna San Rafael Trips here are mesmerizing but expensive (see box, p.460).
Villa Cerro Castillo Some 57km south from Coyhaique, buses pass through the pristine
Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo, but stay on the bus to Villa Cerro Castillo (CH$4500), where you
can hike back up to the Cerro Castillo, view another hanging glacier and find relatively cheap
camping (CH$4000/person) maintained by Conaf. You can also visit the Monumento Nacional
Manos de Cerro Castillo (Dec-April; CH$1000), a cave of enigmatic handprints, thought to have
been made by Teheulche people five thousand years ago.
Puerto Río Tranquilo and Capilla de Mármol South of Castillo (118km) the highway is
interrupted by the dark blue Lago General Carrera, then passes the attractive village of Puerto
Río Tranquilo (CH$8000 by bus from Coyhaique), on the lake's northern shore; stop here to visit
the “marble chapel”, a vast limestone cliff streaked with blue marble and dotted with caves
(CH$25,000/boat). Visiting Villa O'Higgins is another possibility (see p.461).
4
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By bus Most buses drop off and pick up passengers on
Prat, at Balmaceda, while some stop by the post o ce on
the Plaza de Armas. Buses Becker runs to Coyhaíque (Sun
at 8am, more frequently in peak season; 12hr); Buses
Transaustral to Esquel in Argentina several times a week
and Puerto Montt via Argentina and Osorno (Mon at 8am;
more frequently in peak season; 12-14hr).
 
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