Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 451

PARQUE NACIONAL CHILOÉ
On the island's mountainous western
coast, the PARQUE NACIONAL CHILOÉ
comprises vast areas of native evergreen
forest, covering the slopes and valleys of
the Cordillera de Piuchén , as well as wide
deserted beaches and long stretches of
rugged coastline , home to dozens of
seabird species, penguins and sea lions.
The dense vegetation hides the elusive
pudú (pygmy deer) and the shy Chilote
fox. The park is divided into three sectors,
though by far the easiest to access is
Sector Anay.

Tours Altué Expeditions in Dalcahue ( T 9 4196809,
W seakayakchile.com) offer multi-day trips around the
Chiloé archipelago complete with lodging at their kayak
centre near Dalcahue. Multi-activity combination trips in the
Lake District and Patagonia are also on offer. Turismo Pehuén
on Esmeralda 198 ( T 65 635254, W turismopehuen.cl)
organizes city tours, summer boat-trips to the uninhabited
islets off the east coast, day-trips around Chiloé as well as
in-depth multi-day programmes. Newcomer Chiloétnico at
Riquelme 1228 ( T 65 630951, W chiloetnico.cl) specializes
in trekking across Chiloé's national parks.

EASTERN CHILOÉ
The east coast of Chiloé between
Ancud and Castro remains a bastion of
traditional village life, and the location of
many of those famed wooden churches.
Some are only accessible by car - the
enigmatic and isolated San Antonio de
Colo , for example - but you can visit
several via public transport from Castro.
Frequent buses run to the Sunday craft
market and the Nuestra Señora de los
Dolores church in Dalcahue (20km from
Castro), where ferries (every 30min; foot
passengers free, cars CH$2000; 10min)
shuttle across to the elongated Isla
Quinchao. The island is home to Chiloé's
oldest church, the ancient-looking Iglesia
de Santa María de Loreto in Achao , dating
back to 1740. The coast road continues
from Dalcahue for another 30km to the
tiny fishing village of Tenaún, location of
the most dazzling church on the island,
the blue and white Nuestra Señora del
Patrocinio (completed in 1902 but
almost completely rebuilt in 2011). The
road north to Quicaví and the sleepy
fishing town of Quemchi is rough gravel
(though slowly being paved), and best
tackled by car.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus Most of the east coast is accessible by minibus
from Castro, departing the Terminal de Buses Municipal,
San Martín 667 (Quemchi is the only town serviced by
regular buses from Ancud). Always check the latest
schedule (and return bus) before departing.
Destinations Castro to: Curaco de Vélez/Achao (every
30min; 1hr 50min); Dalcahue (frequently; 30min);
Quemchi (8.20am; 12.25pm & 6.30pm; 1hr); Quicaví
(3 daily Mon-Fri, 2 Sat, 1 Sun; 1hr 30min); Tenaún (Mon-
Sat 3 daily, Sun 2 daily; 1hr).

Sector Anay
To reach Sector Anay, take a bus to the
tumbledown village of Cucao from Castro's
Terminal Municipal (4-6 daily in peak
season; 1hr). Pay the park entrance fee at
Chanquín (daily 9am-7pm; CH$1500),
across the river from the village, where
Conaf 's Centro de Visitantes provides
visitors with a detailed map of the park.
Though you can pick up some supplies at
Cucao (there are several guesthouses of
varying quality here also), and buy fresh
catch from the fishermen, you'll need
adequate food to explore the park properly.
There are some attractive short walks
from the visitors' centre - the 750m
Sendero El Tepual winds its way through
humid, slippery tepú woods, and the
Sendero Dunas de Cucao switches between
patches of dense vegetation and sand
dunes, before arriving at a white beach.
The 25km Sendero Chanquín-Cole Cole
runs to the Conaf Refugio Cole Cole ,
alternating between stretches of beach and
forest, with dramatic views of the coastline,
pounded by the fierce Pacific surf.

4

ACCOMMODATION
Camping Chanquín T 9 6442489. This campsite 200m
beyond the visitor centre has twenty camping sites, fire
pits, showers and picnic tables. Wild camping is f ree on the
beach and along the trails. Camping/person CH$4500 ,
cabins CH$35,000

PARQUE TANTAUCO
At the very south of Chiloé, the remote
private reserve of PARQUE TANTAUCO ,
created by the current president of Chile,