Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 450

CHILOTE CHURCHES
It is impossible to visit Chiloé and not be struck by the sight of the archipelago's wooden
churches , some of which have a vaguely Scandinavian rather than Spanish look. In 2001
UNESCO accepted sixteen of them on to its prestigious World Heritage list. The outside of
the churches is almost always bare, and the only thing that expresses anything but
functionality is the three-tiered, hexagonal bell tower that rises up directly above an
open-fronted portico. The facades, doors and windows are often brightly painted, and the
walls clad with plain clapboard or wooden tiles. The roofs are built like traditional Chilote boats
and then turned upside down. The ceilings are often painted too, with allegorical panels or
golden constellations of stars painted on an electric blue background. For more information
on Chiloé's churches, check out the informative W interpatagonia.com/iglesiaschiloe.

games room with cable TV and a sunny back terrace. Doubles
CH$19,500
Hospedaje El Mirador Barros Arana 127 T 65 633795,
W hostalelmiradorcastro.cl. The best choice of guesthouse
on this steep pedestrian street, with immaculate rooms
and a friendly host. Kitchen privileges, w i-fi and good
breakfast are included. Doubles CH$20,000
Ì Palafito Hostel Riquelme 1210 T 65 531008,
W palafitohostel.com. Staying in this revamped palafito
feels like being in a boat: the eight plush, well-furnished
en-suites have curved walls and there's a little deck at the
back of the dining area. Breakfast includes delicious home-
made bread, the staff can help organize horseriding in
Parque Nacional Chiloé and there's wi-fi throughout.
The only downsid e is the hill you have to walk up to get
into town. Dorms CH$13,000 , doubles CH$32,000
Hostal Torre de Babel O'Higgins 965 T 65 534569,
W hostaltorredebabel.com. Large, attractive house
attracting a mixed Chilean and international clientele. The
rooms, panelled with local mañio wood, are spacious and
clean (most of the time), the owner throws in all-you-can-
eat breakfast and wi-fi and organizes group trips into the
countryside. You may have to queue for the bathroom
as there are only t wo for the eight rooms. CH$2000 for
breakfast. Doubles CH$20,000

inexpensive fish, seafood and curanto . Mains from
CH$3000. Daily 11.30am-10pm.
Marion's Café Aleman Serrano 325 T 8 3524342.
Excellent breakfasts, real espresso, light meals and especially
addictive German-style cakes/ apfelstrudel in a homely,
relaxed café (Marion hails from Germany; English spoken).
Free wi-fi. Mon-Sat 8.30am-7pm, Sun 10.30am-7pm.
Ì Octavio Pedro Montt 261 T 65 632855. With
exemplary service, an excellent location in a palafito right
over the water and a simple but expertly executed menu,
this has been the best place in Castro for curanto en olla
(CH$4500) for many years now. Fish mains CH$4000-
7000. Daily 10am-midnight.
Ristoretto Caffé Blanco 264 T 65 532769. Castro's other
essential coffee and cake stop is this modern, stylish café
near the plaza, with a huge range of teas, coffees, fresh
juices and sandwiches. Free wi-fi, but smoking allowed.
Mon-Sat 8am-9pm.
Sacho Thompson 213 T 65 632079. This old favourite still
draws both locals and travellers in the know with its mix of
friendly service, sea views and, of course, excellent seafood.
Try the pulmay (like curanto but with more shellfish) or
anything with clams. Mains from CH$5500. Tues-Sat noon-
4pm & 8pm-midnight, Sun noon-4pm.

4

DIRECTORY
Banks and exchange There are several banks within
a block of the Plaza de Armas, all with ATMs. Try Banco de
Chile on Blanco Encalada, at Serrano, or Scotiabank half
a block north on Serrano.
Hospital Hospital Augusta Rifat, on Freire 852 ( T 65
632445), has basic medical facilities.
Internet Try the Centro de Llamados on Blanco Encalada,
half a block from the Plaza (it's primarily a gaming centre
and open late), PC Chiloe at Gamboa 452 or Don Ignacio at
O'Higgins 626 (all charge around CH$500/hr).
Laundry Clean Center, at Balmaceda 220, does laundry
(CH$1500/kg), as does Magic Matic at Blanco Encalada 329
(on the plaza).
Post o ce O'Higgins 388, Plaza de Armas (Mon-Fri
9am-1.30pm & 3-6pm, Sat 10am-12.30pm).

EATING AND DRINKING
Grab cheap food, fruits and veg at Unimarc on O'Higgins
(Mon-Sat 9am-9.30pm; Sun 10am-9pm) or the smaller
Supermercado O'Higgins outside the municipal bus station.
La Brújula del Cuerpo O'Higgins 308 T 65 633225.
Popular, bustling café on the plaza, serving milkshakes,
sandwiches, pizza and decent burger-and-fries combos -
a welcome sight for travellers who can't bear to look at
another plate of mussels. The fajitas may not be terribly
Mexican, but they're certainly palatable. Burger and fries
from CH$2700; chicken fajitas CH$2700. Free wi-fi. Daily
11am-midnight.
Feria Artesanal Eusebio Lillo s/n. Behind the crafts
market you'll find several palafitos housing cafeterias
that fill up with locals at lunchtime. Try El Caleuche for