Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 440

TAKING THE BOAT TO ARGENTINA
Puerto Varas lies on the well-beaten path between Puerto Montt and Bariloche in Argentina.
If you're Argentina-bound, a lake crossing that allows you to experience the beauty of Chile's
oldest national park - Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales - is an excellent alternative
to a long bus journey. Starting out at 8.30am, you are first driven along the banks of Lago
Llanquihue to Petrohué , before boarding the ferry that takes you across Lago Todos Los
Santos , a spectacular expanse of clear blue-green water. As you sail along the densely
forested shores, the volcanoes Osorno (2660m) and Puntiagudo (2190m) loom to the north,
with the majestic Tronador (3491m) to the east. After going through Chilean customs at
Peulla, you then cross the Argentine border at Paso Pérez Rosales, and get stamped in at tiny
Puerto Frías. At this point you'll board the ferry again for the short crossing of Laguna Frías,
then transfer by bus to Puerto Blest and your final nautical leg of the journey, a boat across the
stunningly beautiful Lago Nahuel Huapi (departing around 6pm), arriving at Puerto Pañuel.
From here another bus should get you into Bariloche around 8.30pm. Book in advance,
especially during the peak season, with Turismo Peulla ( T 65 437127, W traveladventure.cl;
CH$135,000).

entrance next to post o ce. Central location and rock-
bottom prices make this warren of immaculately clean,
tiny rooms a top budget choice. The only drawbacks are
not being able t of find you r way out and the lack of central
heating. Dorms CH$5000 , doubles CH$15,000
Hostal Margouya II Purísima 681 T 65 237695,
W margouya2.com. Doubling up as a language school,
the second branch of Casa Margouya , housed in a historic
1932 building, offers spacious, quiet rooms, wi th priority
given to those wishin g to study Spanish. Dorms CH$8000 ,
doubles CH$19,000
Hostal Melmac Walker Martínez 561 T 65 230863,
W melmacpatagonia.com. Self-proclaimed “hostel from
another world” offering yoga and painting workshops, as
well as the standard outdoor excursions. The beds are new
and comfortable, there are lockers for your valuables and
kitchen access, and th e owner so metimes throws barb ecues
in the garden. Dorms CH$9000 , doubles CH$20,000

inexpensive fish and seafood to hungry locals. Try the
conger eel, any of the fish plates (CH$5500-7500), and
their infamous Don Guillermo pisco sour. Cash only. Daily
11am-10pm.
Garage Martínez 220 T 65 232856. A bar/club that's
located in an, erm, garage, that comes alive after 11pm,
with its mixture of jazz and rock or wherever the mood
takes them. Mon-Sat 8pm-4am.
Trattoria Di Carusso San Bernardo 318, at San José
T 65 233 478, W dicarusso.cl. Family-run Italian restaurant
with a wood-fired oven inside the Hosteria Outsider , with
chequered tablecloths and heaped portions of delicious
home-made pasta. Menú del día from CH$5200, seafood
CH$6000-7000. Daily 1pm-12.45am.

4

DIRECTORY
Banks and exchange There are several banks with
ATMs downtown, including the reliable Banco de Chile
at Del Salvador 201 and Santander at San Francisco and
Del Salvador.
Hospital Centro Médico Puerto Varas is at Walker
Martínez 576 ( T 65 232792).
Internet Try Ciber Patagonia inside the Dona Natalia
shopping gallery off Del Salvador, half a block from the
Plaza (Mon-Fri 9am-9.30pm, Sat 10.30am-9.30pm, Sun
11.30am-7pm; CH$250/15min; CH$600/1hr).
Laundry Lavandería Alba at Walker Martinez 511
(Mon-Fri 9am-1pm, 3-7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-1.30pm;
self-service CH$1500 or CH$1900/kg.
Post o ce San José 242, at San Pedro (Mon-Fri
9am-1.30pm & 3-6pm, Sat 9am-1pm).

EATING AND DRINKING
There are two major supermarkets in the centre: Santa
Isabel on Del Salvador (Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm) and
Express Lider on Gramados (Mon-Sat 8.30am-10pm, Sun
9am-10pm).
Caffé El Barista Martínez 211 T 65 233130, W elbarista
.cl. Bright, trendy café serving excellent Italian coffee
(from CH$1500), sandwiches (CH$2700-3200) and cakes
(CH$1000-2200). They also serve wine and decent pisco
sour (CH$2500). Wi-fi available. Daily 9am-10.30pm.
Dane's Café & Restaurant Del Salvador 441 T 65 232371.
This established favourite reflects the town's hybrid history,
their empanadas de horno sitting alongside the superb
apfelstrudel . A great spot for coffee with cake (around
CH$1700) or an inexpensive lunch. Daily 7.45am-1am.
Donde El Gordito San Bernardo 560 T 65 233425. Busy
little café inside the market serving large portions of

SALTOS DE PETROHUÉ
Chile boasts hundreds of waterfalls,
but none quite like the Saltos de