Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 438

LAGO LLANQUIHUE
Some 170km south of Valdivia lies
dazzling LAGO LLANQUIHUE , the
second-largest lake in Chile, its
shimmering blue waters framed by thick
forest and the peaks of snow-tipped
volcanoes. The lake draws local and
foreign visitors alike to its appealing
beaches , the best found in the German
lakeside town of Frutillar ( W frutillar
.com). People also come for the ample
natural attractions around the resort
town of Puerto Varas , and to experience
the laidback lifestyle of lakeside villages
such as Puerto Octay ( W puertoctay.cl),
where the Swiss-Chilean-run Hostal
Zapato Amarillo ( T 64 210787,
W zapatoamarillo.cl; dorms CH$10,000,
doubles CH$30,000) is a huge
budget-traveller draw in itself, providing
a welcoming place to stay amid
stunning scenery.

Hostal Totem Carlos Anwandter 425 T 63 292849,
W turismototem.cl. Quiet guesthouse with clean, spacious,
en-suite rooms. Cabl e TV, wi-fi and breakfast are included.
Doubles CH$30,000

EATING AND DRINKING
Grab basic food supplies at the Unimarc supermarket, behind
the Mercado on Yungay; for fresh fruit and vegetables the
Mercado Fluvial is your best bet.
Café Haussmann O'Higgins 394 T 63 213878,
W haussmann.cl. Tiny canteen with four small booths,
founded by Don Ricardo Haussmann in 1959 and harking
back to Valdivia's German roots with its specialities of crudos
(steak tartare) on toast (CH$1800 each), Kunstmann beer
(CH$1700) and excellent cakes (küchen) from CH$1400.
Mon-Sat 8am-9pm.
Café Palace Pérez Rosales 580 T 63 213539. Old-
fashioned Valdivian diner, which hasn't changed much
since it was founded in 1954. Try the hefty and delicious
“palace sandwich”, and grab some real coffee (mains from
CH$1900). Smoking allowed. Daily 7am-11pm.
La Calesa O'Higgins 160 T 63 225467. Peruvian restaurant
in a quiet neighbourhood putting some spice in your
life with its ají de gallina (spicy garlic chicken stew), and
excellent ceviche . Mains CH$6000-9000. Tues 7-11.30pm,
Wed-Sat 1-4pm & 7-11.30pm, Sun 1-4pm (April-Dec
closed Tues and Wed-Fri lunchtime).
Ì Cervecería Kunstmann 950 Ruta T-350 T 63 292969,
W lacerveceria.cl. German beerhall serving monster portions
of meat, sauerkraut and potatoes to accompany its beers
(from CH$1950); order the sampler for CH$2600. Finish off
with a beer ice-cream sundae (CH$2600). To get here, take
bus #20 bound for Niebla (CH$500). Daily noon-idnight
(brewery tours Nov-March daily noon-9pm; hourly; April-
Oct call ahead to confirm; CH$6900).
Entrelagos Pérez Rosales 622 T 63 212047. Lauded
chocolatier and bakery selling all sorts of delectable cakes,
pastries, chocolates and gelato (CH$1000 per scoop). Next
door is the sit-down “salon de the” which serves the cakes but
also full meals and tea sets. Shop Mon-Fri 9.40am-1.30pm
& 3.30-8pm, Sat 10am-1.30pm & 4-7pm, Sun 4-7pm; café
Mon-Fri 9am-9pm, Sat 9am-10pm, Sun 11am-9pm.
Mercado Municipal Prat s/n. Try the large servings of
fresh fish (salmon), razor clam or mussel dishes at these
busy little eateries inside the craft market overlooking the
river (the third floor is cheapest). Mains CH$2000-3000.
Daily 8am-8.30pm.
La Última Frontera Pérez Rosales 787 T 63 235363.
Laidback clapboard café popular with students. It's deco-
rated with local artwork and serves excellent sandwiches
and tasty crêpes with a variety of fillings (including
vegetarian options) late into the evenings; wash them
down with fresh fruit juice or a Kunstmann beer. Crêpes
CH$4000. Daily 11.30am-11pm.

4

PUERTO VARAS
Dominating the southwestern corner of
the lake, sprawling PUERTO VARAS has
become a popular resort town and
backpacker haunt, with unparalleled
sunset views of the two nearby
volcanoes, Osorno and Calbuco.
Rivalling Pucón in terms of nearby
outdoor attractions , Puerto Varas does
not feel too crowded despite its
popularity, and makes an excellent base
for volcano-climbing, white-water
rafting, kayaking and cycling; it also
serves as a popular stopover on the way
to Patagonia. Though the town is spread
out over 3km of lakefront, most services,
hostels and restaurants are located
within a couple of blocks of the little
Plaza de Armas.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By plane The nearest airport is at Puerto Montt, but you
can book your flights with LAN at Gramados 560 (Mon-Fri
9am-1.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm, Sat 9.30am-1.30pm; T 600
5252000) or with Sky Airline at San Bernardo 430 (Mon-Fri
9am-1pm & 3-7pm, Sat 10am-1pm; T 65 234252). Taxis
to the airport charge CH$18,000, but shared transfers are
CH$12,000.
By bus Bus Norte (with services to Bariloche, Argentina),
Pullman and Cruz del Sur (serving Chiloé and the Lake