Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Built in 1861 as the Casa Anwandter for
one of the city's wealthiest men (German-
born Don Carl Anwandter established
the brewing industry here in the 1850s),
its period rooms contain an odd
assortment of historic curios (one room
has the cane used by Lord homas
Cochrane when he captured the city in
1820), while upstairs galleries are filled
with Mapuche artefacts and prehistoric
finds (some English labelling). Nearby is
the Museo R. A. Philippi de la Exploración
(same hours and admission fees) in the
Casa Schüller (dating from 1914),
a tribute to German-born naturalist
Rudolph Philippi, who worked here in
the 1850s (some English labelling).
63 282084, W museodeniebla.cl). Only
the battlements, a battery of rusty cannons
and a few grassy foundations remain, but
the views of the bay are magnificent and
the museum, in the restored commander's
house, covers colonial military history in
detail (Spanish text only). The fort saw
action only once - in 1820, when it was
captured by Lord Cochrane's naval flotilla.
T
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By plane Aeropuerto Pichoy lies 32km northeast of the
city; a Transfer Valdivia minibus ( T 63 225533) into town
will set you back CH$5000. Sky Airline serves Puerto Montt
(weekly, summer only; 25min), while LAN serves Santiago
(2 daily; 1hr 35min).
By bus The main Terminal de Buses ( T 63 220498,
W terminalvaldivia.cl) is located at Anfión Muñoz 360,
by Río Calle Calle. Most Santiago buses depart 7-10am,
and 7-11pm.
Destinations Bariloche (1 daily at 8.45am; 7hr); Osorno
(every 15-30min; 1hr 45min); Pucón (5-6 daily; 3hr);
Puerto Montt (every 15-30min; 3hr 30min); Santiago
(32 daily; 11hr); San Martín de Los Andes, Argentina (Wed,
Fri & Sun 7.30am; 8hr); Villarrica (4-5 daily; 2hr 15min).
Internet Try Ciber Centro on Chacabuco between
Henríquez and Caupolicán (CH$500/hr).
Laundry Lavandería y Lavaseco Fenix 3, Picarte 3135
(Mon-Sat 9am-6pm; T 63 225122; CH$1900/kg).
Tourist information There is a helpful Sernatur o ce
at Arturo Prat s/n (on the Costanera, just north of the
fish market; Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat & Sun 10am-4pm;
T 63 239060, W valdiviaturismo.cl).
Las Fuertes (forts)
In 1645 the Spanish started building
elaborate fortifications at Corral , Niebla
and Isla Mancera , where the Río Valdivia
and Río Tornagaleones meet the Pacific
Ocean, to protect Valdivia from
opportunistic attacks by British, French
and Dutch privateers. If the weather is
good, a trip to the ruins can make for
a refreshing day out; take the Niebla-
bound bus #20 from Carampanque, at
O'Higgins (25min; CH$500, frequent),
and get off at the little ferry pier 18km
from the city. From here boats (Mon-Sat
5 daily, Sun 4 daily; seasonal changes
possible; CH$300) ply their way to
Isla Mancera and the ruins of the Castillo
San Pedro de Alcántara (Jan & Feb daily
10am-8pm, March-Dec Tues-Sun
10am-1pm & 2-6pm; CH$700).
You can also take a ferry (daily
9am-5.40pm; 30min; CH$650) across
the Bahía de Corral to the Castillo San
Sebastián de la Cruz (Nov-March daily
10am-6pm, April-Oct Tues-Sun
10am-5.30pm; CH$1300), reinforced
in the 1760s; it's the most intact of all
the forts, and a short walk from the pier
in Corral.
To get an overview of the whole system
visit Fuerte Niebla , 2km beyond the ferry
pier (ask the bus driver to drop you off),
built between 1647 and 1672 and now the
Museo de Sitio Castillo de Niebla (April-
Oct Tues-Sun 10am-5.30pm, Nov-
March Tues-Sun 10am-7pm; CH$600;
4
ACCOMMODATION
Airesbuenos Hostel García Reyes 550 T 63 222202,
W airesbuenos.cl. Well-run HI-a liated and eco-friendly
hostel, bustling with younger travellers, with bright,
cheery dorms at a central location, complete with internet,
TV lounge and guest kitchen, as well as friend ly staff on
hand to he lp and advise. Dorms CH$8500 , doubles
CH$23,000
Hostel Bosque Nativo Fresia 290 (off Janequeo) T 63
433782, W hostelnativo.cl. Newish hostel in a beautifully
restored 1920s house with cosy rooms, kitchen, lounge
and rooftop terrace. Profits go towards the preservation of
native Chilean forest and foreigners get discou nted room
prices. The staff cou ldn't be friendlier. Dorms CH$9500 ,
doubles CH$20,000
Cabañas y Hostal Borde Río Henríquez 746 T 63
214069, W valdiviacabanas.cl. Most of the colourful rooms
have small sofas, the bathrooms are larger than in most
hostels, and you can arrange kayaking trips here. Doubles
CH$28,000
 
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