Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 435

accessible by Buses Caburgua (one-way CH$2000, return
CH$3600; daily 8.30am, 1pm, 4pm; return 9.30am,
2.10pm, 5.10pm; less frequently out of season). At the
Conaf guardería at the Lago Tinquilco entrance, you'll find
a trail map; all the trails are clearly signposted.

museum of Mapuche artefacts and
cultural centre found behind the bright
green Municipalidad buildings on the
plaza (Héroes de La Concepción 21, just
off the main drag, O'Higgins). Exhibit
labels are in Spanish and Mapuche only.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus Minibuses Vipu Ray runs from Pucón (Palguín 550)
to Curarrehue every 30min or so (45min). You can catch
onward buses to Argentina with Buses San Martín
on O'Higgins.

ACCOMMODATION
Cabañas San Sebastián Termas de San Sebastián
T 45 381279, W termassansebastian.cl. Serene campsite
and cabañas at the end of the Sendero Los Huerquenes; the
rustic wood cabins can accommodate two or five people,
all equipped with b athrooms a nd showers su pplied by the
hot springs. Day use CH$4000 ; cabañas from CH$35,000 ,
camping/person CH$5000
Parque Nacional Huerquehue Camping T 09
61574089, E [e-mail]. If not headed
to the Termas de San Sebastián, you can camp at the basic
but pretty Conaf-run campsite at Lago Tinquilco, near the
entrance (toilets and hot showers inc luded); pay Conaf at
the park entrance). Pitch CH$15,000
Refugio Tinquilco T 569 2789831, W tinquilco.cl.
Excellent, airy wooden guesthouse in a beautiful stream-
side location a 2km hike from the park entrance, with
home-cooked meals (breakfast included), a sauna and
even a book exchange. Bunks in cabins CH$11,500 ,
doubles from CH$27,900

EATING
Mapu Iyagl Camino internacional s/n T 08 7887188,
T 09 85141783. If you have time, try and eat at this lauded
restaurant, 1km on the main road back to Pucón, home of
celebrity Mapuche chef Anita Epulef; her Mapuche dishes
utilize local pine nuts (piñónes), herbs, sopapillas and
seasonal vegetables. Daily noon-3pm (call ahead to
confirm).
El Tropero O'Higgins 346 T 45 1971561. Several cafés
serve up local and Chilean dishes on the main street, but
this is the best, set in an old wooden cabin and offering
several computer terminals with free internet for custo-
mers. Expect typical dishes such as roast lamb, fried
salmon, corn cakes and chicken with peas (from CH$2000).
Mon-Sat 11am-7pm.

4

CURARREHUE
This small Mapuche settlement 48km
east of Pucón, the last stop before the
Argentine border, feels like a frontier
town, with its sleepy streets and handful
of local restaurants. Those interested in
Mapuche culture will want to stop by
the Aldea Intercultural Trawupeyüm
(daily 10am-8pm; donation), the small

VALDIVIA
From 1848, thousands of German
immigrants passed through the port of
VALDIVIA , initiating an industrial boom
that lasted well into the twentieth
century. Founded in 1552 by Pedro de
Valdivia, it is one of Chile's oldest cities,

TOP THREE HOT SPRINGS IN THE LAKE DISTRICT
Termas Geométricas 16km northeast of Coñaripe
towards Villarrica National Park T 9 74771708, T 2
2141214 in Santiago, W termasgeometricas.cl. With
a Japanese feel to the beautiful design, there are
seventeen thermal pools here, connected by winding
boardwalks around a ravine overflowing with greenery,
as well as three cold plunge pools, two waterfalls and an
excellent café. Jan-late March 10am-11pm; rest of the
year 11am-8pm; CH$14,000 (10am-1pm), CH$16,000
(1-11pm), cash only.
Termas de Panqui 58km east of Pucón T 45 442039,
E [e-mail]. Unconventional hot
springs offering three pools of varying temperature,

as well as relaxing mud baths, a vegetarian restaurant,
a chance to join in full-moon celebrations, and camping
spots and tepees to stay in. Daily 9am-9pm; CH$9000;
more with accommodation.
Termas Los Pozones 34km east of Pucón, past Termas
de Huife T 9 1972350. Probably the most-visited
thermal baths near Pucón, especially on night tours,
these consist of hot riverside pools at the end of a steep
and sometimes muddy descent (bring a torch); there
are wooden changing rooms above the pools from
which you descend via a trapdoor. Daily 11am-3am;
11am-8pm CH$5500; 8pm-3am CH$6500.