Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 430

ACCOMMODATION, EATING AND
DRINKING
Several supermarkets are conveniently located in the centre
of Villarrica, with the largest Supermercado Eltit on Valdivia,
at General Körner (Sun-Thurs 8.30am-9.30pm, Fri & Sat
8.30am-10pm).
Hostal Don Juan Körner 770 T 45 411833, W hostal
donjuan.cl. Boasting great views of Volcán Villarrica, this
cosy hotel has an assortment of rooms and cabañas, plus
table tennis and table fo otball for th e guests. Do ubles
(private bath) CH$24,000 , shared bath CH$16,000
Huerto Azul Henríquez 341 T 45 413148, W huertoazul
.cl. Serves the finest frozen yogurt, Belgian artisan choco-
late and Italian ice cream in Chile, tangy and creamy
concoctions laced with fresh fruit all made locally from
old family recipes (CH$1200). Also produces marmalade,
jam, fruit juice and sauces (cakes CH$1300-1500). Daily
9.30am-9.30pm (café closes at 8pm).
La Torre Suiza Bilbao 969 T 45 411213, W torresuiza
.com. The Swiss owners here welcome you into their wood-
panelled haven for outdoor lovers, particularly cyclists. There's
a book exchange, kitchen privileges, bi ke rental, go od break-
fast and tons of helpful ad vice. Dorms CH$10,000 , doubles
(private bath) CH$20,000
The Travellers Letelier 753 T 45 413617, W thetravellers
.cl. A top spot for coffee, beer or meals of any description,
with a relaxed outdoor terrace and woodsy, cabin interior -
the eclectic menu features dishes from all over the world,
from Mexican burritos to Thai curry. Mains from CH$6500.
Daily 9.30am-midnight.

well-heeled Chilean holidaymakers with
its gorgeous lakeside views of the Volcán
Villarrica long before Pucón (see p.435),
and these days foreign visitors and
backpackers are coming in greater
numbers, drawn by the slower pace
of life than its adrenaline-charged
neighbour - the distinctive squawking
of the local buff-necked and white-faced
ibis adds an exotic touch.
The centre of the town surrounds
the junction between Valdivia and
Alderete/Henríquez, with the Costanera
bike track and footpath hugging the
lakeside for 1.8km a few blocks north.
he Museo Histórico Municipal
(Mon-Sat 9am-1pm & 3.30-7pm;
free; T 045 415706), next door to
the tourist office at Valdivia 1050,
showcases a small collection of
Mapuche artefacts. Plenty of Mapuche
arts and crafts shops dot the centre;
next door to the museum on Valdivia,
at Zegers, the stalls of the Centro
Cultural Mapuche (daily 9am-5pm)
sell silver jewellery, local cheese and
cheap empanadas (CH$300) around
a ruka - a traditional dwelling with
walls and roof tightly woven from
reeds. Many of the former vendors from
here have set up shop at the nearby
Mercado Fritz, across Acevedo (also
with its own ruka ).

4

DIRECTORY
Banks and exchange There are several banks (Bank of
Chile, Santander) with ATMs and money exchange places
along Valdivia, between the tourist o ce and Alderete.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By bus Most of the bus terminals cluster along Anfíon
Muñoz between Valdivia and Bilbao, just east of Alderete/
Henríquez. Tur Bus at Muñoz 657 and Pullman (opposite)
serve all major central Chile destinations on the way to
Santiago. Buses JAC at Bilbao 610 serves Lake District
destinations, notably Pucón (from CH$800) and Temuco
(CH$2000), while Igi Llaima at Valdivia 615 crosses the
border to San Martín de Los Andes and Bariloche in
Argentina; the same terminal serves second-class Buses
Villarrica (just CH$1000 to Temuco), Condor and cheap
minibuses to Lican Rey and Pucón (CH$850).
Destinations Pucón (every 30min; 45min); Puerto Montt
(hourly; 6hr); Santiago (4 daily; 9hr); San Martín de Los
Andes (4 weekly; 10hr); Temuco (every 30min; 1hr);
Valdivia (7 daily; 2hr 15min).
Tourist information The helpful tourist o ce, at Pedro
de Valdivia 1070 (Mon-Fri 8.30am-1pm & 2.30-6pm;
Sat & Sun 9am-1pm & 3.30-5.30pm; T 45 206619,
W visitvillarrica.cl), offers free maps of the town.

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
Hostería de la Colina Casilla 382,
Las Colinas 115 T 45 411503,
W hosteriadelacolina.com. On a hill
overlooking Lago Villarrica, set in a
beautiful sculpted garden alive with
blossoms and flitting hummingbirds,
you'll find the Hostería de la Colina . Not
only are the expat Oregonian owners
legendary for their hospitality, but their
food is made from fresh local ingredients
(such as steak, elk, wild boar and smoked
salmon; mains CH$6000-7000), they
make their own sumptuous ice cream
(try the ginger, CH$900) and they hand
out excellent hiking maps that they
produce themselves. CH$55,000