Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 426

CONCEPCIÓN
CONCEPCIÓN is Chile's second-largest
city, a bustling sprawl some 112km
southwest of Chillán. It has little in the
way of tourist sights, though its huge
student population ensures a high
concentration of lively bars. Founded
in 1550, the city was the administrative
and military capital of colonial Chile.
It suffered considerable structural damage
in the huge 2010 earthquake.

captured in a series of densely packed
images oriented around the main figure of
an indígena (a native woman). Interwoven
throughout are colourful ribbons
representing every Latin American flag
and numerous national symbols.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By plane Aeropuerto Internacional Carriel Sur ( T 41
2732000) is 5km northwest of downtown; a door-to-door
airport transfer service is available (CH$5000; T 41 2248776).
Destinations Santiago (5-6 daily, 1hr 5min) with LAN
( T 600 5262000) and Sky Airline ( T 41 2218941).
By train Estación Concepción ( T 41 2868015) is located
across Prat from Barros Arana. Fast commuter trains run
to nearby Talcahuano, Hualqui and Lomas Coloradas.
By bus Most long-distance buses arrive at the Terminal
de Buses Collao, Tegualda 860 ( T 41 2749000), from
where numerous local buses run downtown.
Destinations Angol (6-8 daily; 2hr); Chillán (every 50min;
1hr 30min); Los Ángeles (hourly; 1hr 30min); Santiago
(every 30min; 7hr); Talca (6-8 daily; 4hr).
Tourist information The Sernatur o ce is at Aníbal Pinto
460 (Mon-Fri 8.30am-1pm & 3-6pm; T 41 2741415,
W descubrebiobio.cl) and has plenty of information on the
region surrounding Concepción. Conaf has an o ce at Barros
Arano 215 (Mon-Fri 8.30am-1pm & 2.15-5.25pm).

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
The heart of Concepción's walkable city
centre, lined with a mixture of elegant
old buildings and modern concrete blocks,
is the carefully landscaped Plaza de la
Independencia . Partially pedestrianized
Barros Arana, the main thoroughfare, has
shops and places to eat, while at the western
end lies the lively Barrio Estación , whose
trendy bars and restaurants are centred
around Plaza España , across Calle Prat from
the new train station . A four-block walk
south from the Plaza de la Independencia
along Aníbal Pinto brings you to the long
green stretch of Parque Ecuador .

4

ACCOMMODATION
Apart Hotel Don Matías Colo Colo 155 T 41 2256846,
W aparthoteldonmatias.cl/inicio.html. An attractive B&B
with friendly service, large rooms, som e with priva te bath-
rooms, and a good breakfast. Doubles CH$40,000
Residencial O'Higgins O'Higgins 115, 2nd floor T 41
2221086. Centrally located g uesthouse with basic but
clean rooms. Dorms CH$7000
Hostal San Martín San Martín 949 T 41 2981282,
W hostalsanmartin.cl. Smart and slightly sterile hotel with
professi onal service, spacious rooms and breakfast included.
Doubles CH$40,000

Galería de la Historia
Three blocks west of the Parque Ecuador,
at the corner of Lamas and Lincoyán, is
the Galería de la Historia (Mon 3-6.30pm,
Tues-Fri 10am-1.30pm & 3-6.30pm,
Sat & Sun 10am-2pm & 3-7pm; free),
which showcases the region's turbulent
history through a series of interactive
dioramas, with voice-overs dramatizing
the scenes. There's also a large collection
of ornate silver maté gourds.

Casa del Arte
Three blocks south of the Plaza de la
Independencia, you can catch a colectivo
eastwards to the Casa del Arte (Tues-Fri
10am-6pm, Sat 11am-5pm, Sun
11am-2pm; free), on the corner of Plaza
Perú. This museum displays a modest
collection of Chilean art and hosts
captivating modern art exhibitions in its
basement, but its highlight is the giant
mural , La Presencia de América Latina ,
by Mexican muralist Jorge Gonzáles
Camarena. Latin America - its conquest,
its cultural and agricultural wealth - is

EATING, DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE
Hiper Lider on Prat/Freire is a massive supermarket with
an excellent selection of fresh produce, as well as rare Thai
and Chinese cooking ingredients.
Mercado Central Rengo, between Maipú and Freire. The
informal cocinerías here are a good spot for inexpensive
Chilean standards, such as cazuela (CH$3000).
Il Padrino Barros Arana, at Plaza España. Bustling Italian
restaurant and bar, serving generous portions of pasta
and pizza. Mains CH$6000-8000. Closed Sun.
La Suite Barros Arana, at Serrano. Café/restaurant with
tablas , beers and live music, offering chorrillanas (a huge
portion of chips, covered with sausagemeat and fried onions).