Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 418

and welcoming couple who organize all manner of
outdoor activities for guests. Most rooms are en suite;
shares arranged. Kitchen, lounge, wi-fi, cable TV, bicycle
rent and laundry service are some of the bonuses.
Breakfast included. Doubles CH$22,000
Ì Sunny Days Hostel Tomas Aravena 161 T 58
2241038, W sunny-days-arica.cl. Extremely friendly and
knowledgeable Kiwi-Chilean hosts preside over travellers
of all ages in this custom-built hostel. Free internet,
excellent breakfast, kitchen and lounge facilities and a
relaxed co mmunal atmosphere all add to its appeal. Dorms
CH$9000 , doubles CH$26,000

ALTITUDE SICKNESS
Known here as puna or soroche ,
altitude sickness affects roughly
a quarter of all travellers who venture
above the altitude of about 2500m,
regardless of age or fitness, though
people with respiratory problems tend
to suffer more. It is rarely life-threatening,
though is dangerous for people
suffering from hypothermia. Symptoms
include vertigo, headaches, nausea,
shortness of breath, lethargy and
insomnia. Keeping properly hydrated
and taking aspirin can alleviate some
of the symptoms; mate de coca
(tea brewed from coca leaves) is also
widely believed to help. Avoid alcohol
consumption, overeating and
over-exertion; if symptoms persist,
try to move to a lower elevation. The
best way to avoid altitude sickness is to
acclimatize gradually by breaking up
your journey to higher regions into
segments.

EATING AND DRINKING
Agro Market Santa Maria Av Santa Maria, at Diego
Portales. Chilean and Peruvian cuisine goes to mano
a mano in this packed, bustling food hall, just one block
from bus terminal and some popular hostels. Try Manos
Peruanas. Ceviche CH$4500.
El Arriero 21 de Mayo 385. Atmospheric steakhouse with
fantastic grilled meat and expertly prepared fish dishes;
slightly pricier than the competition. Steak in pepper sauce
CH$7990.
Café del Mar 21 de Mayo 260. Popular restaurant with a
bargain menú del día , plus large salads and good quiches.
Quiche CH$2500.
Cantaverdi Bolognesi 453. Attractive, much frequented
pub with a pleasant buzz, serving snacks and pizzas along
with a wide range of drinks. Salads CH$2500.
Fish market Av Máximo Lira, at C 21 de Mayo. Excellent
place to pick up some inexpensive sea bass ceviche
(CH$1000).
Terminal Pesquero Off Av Máximo Lira, across from
entrance to C 21 de Mayo. Several no-frills oceanside
eateries here cook up hearty portions of inexpensive fish
dishes; Mata Rangi , in particular, stands out. Set lunch
CH$5200.

4

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By bus La Paloma buses ( T 58 2222710) depart daily
from Arica to Putre at 7am from German Riesco 2071,
returning to Arica from in front of Putre's Hotel Kukuli at
2pm (CH$3500).
Tourist information The tourist o ce is on the south
side of the square (Mon-Fri 10am-2pm & 3-6pm). The
Conaf o ce is at Teniente Del Campo, between La Torre
and O'Higgins ( T 9 77733032).

ACCOMMODATION
La Chakana A 20min walk from the plaza; head downhill
past the church T 9 97459519, W la-chakana.com. German-
Chilean-run option, with comfy be ds, filling b reakfasts
and a hom ely atmosphere. Dorms CH$10,000 , doubles
CH$32,000
Hostal Kali Baquedano 399 T 9 85438716. Spare but
clean rooms off ff central all ey, breakfast available on
request. Doubles CH$25,000

PUTRE
The highland village of PUTRE sits at an
altitude of 3500m and provides an ideal
acclimatization point for venturing into
the Parque Nacional Lauca. Populated by
the indigenous Aymará people, Putre
consists of basic stone houses centred
around a square. It is a tranquil place to
spend a few days, and is becoming an
increasing must-see on the backpacker
trail, with a growing number of
accommodation options. Note that the
only bank, in the square's southeast
corner, does not accept Visa.

EATING
Cantaverdi Arturo Perez 339 East side of the square.
Simple and centrally located restaurant, serving up large,
inexpensive meals, often accompanied by a football game
on TV. Set lunch CH$3500.
Kuchu Marka Baquedano. Homely stews and filling
dishes are on offer at this traditional restaurant. Lunch
menu CH$3800.