Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 409

Money Bring plenty of cash as the ATMs along Caracoles
are frequently out of order. Money exchanges on Toconao
change foreign currency at a poor rate; tour agencies
running trips to Salar de Uyuni can provide better rates for
Bolivianos.
Tourist information Toconao s/n, northeast corner of
Plaza de Armas (Mon-Fri 9am-9pm; T 55 2851420). The
o ce provides maps of the town centre, and the visitor
book is a good source of information from other travellers.
Also check out W sanpedroatacama.com, an excellent
source of information on the area.

hostel offers dorms, singles and doubles with private or
shared bathrooms. Extras include laundry service, and
the congenial h ostess can he lp organi ze volcano c limbs in
the area. Dorms CH$11,000 , doubles CH$38,000
Pozo 3 T 9 62044475. About 4km out of town, this
campsite boasts the best views in all of San Pedro, with the
volcanoes in the distance. Ask around at the bus terminal
for a taxi to take you there (CH$5000). A pool (CH$3000 for
non-guests, included for guests) with hot showers, picnic
tables and barbecue facilities are pluses. Camping/person
CH$5000
Ì Hostal Sonchek Gustovo Le Paige 198 T 55 2851112,
E [e-mail]. With a welcoming and helpful
English- and French-speaking hostess, this extremely
popular and conveniently located hostel has cosy rooms,
kitchen use, a courtyard with hammo cks, laundr y service
and an exce llent café next door. Dorms CH$8000 , doubles
CH$34,000

ACCOMMODATION
Hostal Elim Palpana 6 T 55 2851567, W hostalelim.cl.
Quiet hostel whose friendly owners offer ten lovingly
decorated and furnished doubles, quads and family rooms,
with private bathrooms, in a garden setting with fruit trees
and hammocks. Prices include breakfast an d internet;
laundry service available. Doubles CH$46,410
Hostelling International San Pedro Caracoles 360 T 55
2564683, E [e-mail], W hostelling
sanpedro.cl. Bustling HI branch with member discounts,
three-tiered bunk beds in dorms, clean singles and doubles,
a shaded courtyard, free internet and breakfast. It also
organizes a plethora of tours in th e area an d rents out bikes
and sandboards. Dorms CH$9000 , doubles CH$36,000
Hotel & Camping Takha Takha Caracoles 101 T 55
2851038, W takhatakha.cl. Camping sites in a shaded area
and clean rooms with private or shared bathrooms, set
in a tranquil oasis of vegetation. Popular with travellers of
all ages, and th ere's also a good caf é on the pre mises.
Camping/person CH$10,500 , doubles CH$47,250
Mama Tierra Pachamama 615 T 55 2851418,
E [e-mail]. Popular with
backpackers and a 10min walk from the centre, this tidy

EATING, DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE
The no-frills food stalls by the Atacama 2000 bus stop on
Licancábur s/n are a good place to fill up on cazuela , fried
chicken, hot dogs and other budget options. Meals are all
under CH$3000.
Blanco Caracoles 195. Although fairly pricey, the
imaginative chicken and salmon dishes in this trendy bar-
restaurant are worth the splurge. Fixed-price lunch menu
CH$5500.
Café Esquina Caracoles s/n. Small café dishing out
delicious empanadas (CH$1300) and wonderfully refreshing
ginger lemonade (CH$2200), as well as simple sandwiches
and snacks.
La Estaka Caracoles 259. A rustic bar-restaurant that
features nightly live music, complimentary pisco sours
and a range of expertly prepared if pricey meat and

4

SAN PEDRO TOUR OPERATORS
Choosing a reputable tour operator in San Pedro can be di cult, but at least the intense
competition keeps prices fairly stable. Talk to other travellers who have done the tours recently,
and look at the comment book in the tourist information o ce. Expect to pay around
CH$25,000 for a tour of the altiplano lagoons and villages, CH$10,000 to visit Valle de la Luna,
CH$20,000 to visit the El Tatio geysers and CH$10,000 for a three-hour sandboarding trip
(including an instructor and board rental); trip prices normally exclude entrance fees. The
following are reliable:

Know Chile Gustavo Le Paige 534 T 9 4981280,
W knowchiletour.com. Cheery and knowledgeable
Erich prides himself on seeking out the less well-
trodden path. English spoken.
Maxim Experience Caracoles 174C T 55 2424724,
E [e-mail], W maximexperience
.cl. Sandboarding and trips to the Ojos de Salar lagoons,
among others.

Observatorio del Cielo Austral Caracoles 166
T 55 2851935, W spaceobs.com. French astronomer
Alain Maury brings the night sky to life during the
tours at his home in the desert, where he has set up
several powerful telescopes (times vary; 2hr 30min;
CH$18,000/person). Tours are conducted in English,
French and Spanish. Warm clothes are essential.