Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 406

wonder that most of the population is
squeezed into the more moderate climes
along the coast. The sprawling port city
of Antofagasta is the largest population
centre, while other major towns include
the beach resort of Iquique - popular
with surfers and paragliders - and Arica ,
home to the iconic cliff of El Morro, a
fantastic viewpoint from which to survey
the area's long stretches of sandy beach.
The best base from which to enjoy the
spectacular desert scenery is the laidback
backpacker haven of San Pedro de
Atacama , where visitors flock to whizz
down dunes on sandboards, admire the
steam rising from geysers in the early
morning sun, and spot flamingos on
Chile's largest salt flat.

and further south to the Balneario El
Huáscar and Caleta Coloso. These are
Antofagasta's better beaches , lined with
places to eat, bars and discos, though not
really suitable for swimming.

La Portada
Much featured on postcards, the natural
monument of La Portada , 15km north
of Antofagasta, is a giant rock eroded
into a natural arch. To get there, take
a Mejillones-bound bus and ask to be
dropped off at the junction (10min),
from where it is a half-hour walk towards
the ocean.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By plane The Cerro Moreno airport is 25km north of the
city on Ruta 1; the Aerobús shuttle will drop you off at your
destination. Alternatively, take a bus into the city centre.
Buses to the airport are infrequent. Transvip ( T 02 26773000)
will pick up across town (from downtown CH$6000).
Destinations Calama (2 daily; 45min); Iquique (3 daily;
55min); Santiago (10 daily; 1hr 55min).
By bus Most buses now come through the modern
Terminal de Buses Cardenal Carlos Oviedo Cavada on Pedro
Aguirre Cerda, at Paihuano.
Destinations Arica (6 daily; 10hr); Calama (about 8 daily;
3hr); Copiapó (8 daily; 7hr); Iquique (6 daily; 6hr);
La Serena (8 daily; 12hr); San Pedro de Atacama (at least
6 daily; 5hr); Santiago (10 daily; 18hr).
Tourist information Prat 384, on Plaza Colón (Mon-
Fri 8.30am-7pm, Sat 10am-2pm; T 55 2451819,
E [e-mail]); helpful staff provide city
maps and information on local attractions.

ANTOFAGASTA
ANTOFAGASTA is the biggest city in
northern Chile; a busy industrialized port
and major transportation hub, it has few
attractions to detain travellers, though it's
a good place to stock up on necessities.
James Bond fans may recognize flashes of
the city from the 2008 film Quantum of
Solace , part of which was filmed here.

4

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Antofagasta's compact centre boasts
the surprisingly lovely Plaza Colón ,
the apparent British influence
accentuated by its centrepiece, the
Torre Reloj , a small-scale Big Ben replica.
To the north, three blocks of Arturo
Prat are pedestrianized and feature shops
and cafés, while three blocks south
along Matta is a large pedestrian square
presided over by the impressive pink,
grey and cream Mercado Central , with
its evocative smells of fresh produce
and frying fish.
At the port end of Bolívar, you'll find
the oldest building in the city, the former
Aduana , now housing the Museo
Regional (Tues-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat & Sun
11am-4pm; CH$600), with exhibitions
on regional natural history, archeology
and the War of the Pacific, and an
outstanding mummified babies exhibit.
Colectivos (CH$700) run along Matta to
the often-crowded Balneario Municipal,

ACCOMMODATION
Hostal del Norte La Torre 3162 T 55 2251265, T 9
88692570. Spotless place with pleasant rooms and a
family atmosphere, located just a few blocks from the
centre. Breakfast ava ilable if requested the night before.
Doubles CH$26,000
Residencial El Cobre Arturo Prat 749 T 55 2225162.
Centrally located option with a grubby-looking exterior
and no-frill s rooms, with shared bathrooms. Doubles
CH$16,000
Rocomar Hotel Baquedano 810 T 55 2261139, E hotel
[e-mail]. Pricier, but this place offers clean,
cosy rooms with private bathro om and cabl e TV, and a
basic breakfast included. Doubles CH$32,000

EATING AND DRINKING
Bavaria Latorre 2618. Two-tiered grill-cafeteria, the
latter serving inexpensive fast food, and the former