Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 400

TOUR OPERATORS
From La Serena, a number of tour companies run excursions in the surrounding area.
Popular tours of the Elqui Valley include pisco -tasting (around CH$20,000), stargazing
at the Observatorio Mamalluca (CH$15,000) and penguin-watching at Isla Damas
(CH$30,000).
Daniel Russ T 9 94546000, E jeeptourlaserena
@gmail.com, W jeeptour-laserena.cl. An experienced
and extremely knowledgeable man (with a jeep), who
runs standard excursions for small groups, as well as
trips to Paso del Agua Negra (CH$50,000) and tailor-
made outings. German and English spoken.
Kayak Australis T 2 23342015, W kayakaustralis
.com. Specializes in multi-day sea-kayak trips around
Chile, including one to Isla Damas (CH$300/person
for three days). Book through their Santiago o ce at
El Bosque Sur 65, Piso 2, Oficina 3, Las Condes, or by
email E [e-mail].
Mundo Caballo Km27, along the road between La

Serena and Vicuña T 9 2197872, E mundocaballo
@gmail.com, W mundocaballo.cl. Stables 20km out-
side La Serena offering various horseriding trips,
including one at night (CH$9000/hr). Best contacted
by phone.
Talinay Adventure Expeditions Prat 470 Local 22
T 9 83606464, E [e-mail]. Horse-
riding (CH$80,000/person), diving, sea kayaking and
multi-day trekking and volcano-climbing expeditions,
as well as visits to observatories including La Silla.
Turismo Delfines Matta 655 T 51 2223624,
W turismodelfines.cl. Established operator specializing
in bilingual guided trips to Isla Damas.

exciting eating and nightlife scene
than La Serena. Coquimbo's only
real drawback is the lack of budget
accommodation, though there is one
exception.
The most striking landmark, looming
over town, is a huge 93m cross, the Cruz
del Tercer Milenio ( W cruzdeltercermilenio
.cl). This slightly bizarre construction, the
base of which provides a great viewpoint
over town, was funded by the King of
Morocco for the benefit of the town's
Lebanese Muslim community.
ACCOMMODATION
Hostal Nomade C Regimento Coquimbo 5 T 51
2315665, T 9 3695885, W hostalnomade.cl. HI-a liated
hostel in the large and rambling former residence of the
French ambassador, which has a slightly haunted house
feel. It has friendly and informative staff, large rooms with
exceptionally high ceilings, internet, kitchen facilities and
other backpacker con veniences. Do rms from CH$10,000 ,
doubles (private bath) CH$25,000

Caleta Pescadores Av Costanera, about three blocks
down from the Plaza de Armas at the end of Borgoño.
Bustling, loud and smelly: a superb fish market on the
seafront. Fish dishes from CH$2000.
Restaurant Coquimbo Bilbao 210. Giant portions of
excellent-value fish, as well as superb seafood empanadas .
Merluza and chips CH$3000.

4

ELQUI VALLEY
East of La Serena, the 62km journey to
Vicuña is a scenic trip with breathtaking
vistas of the tranquil Elqui Valley . Its
fertile greenery contrasts greatly with
the valley's sandy sides, its slopes a
spectrum of red, green and gold due to
the mineral-rich soil. The ribbon of the
highway, lined with pink peppercorn
trees, runs along the valley floor, past
vineyards and grapes drying on canvas
sheets by the roadside. Tours of the
valley typically take in the giant dam
and man-made Lago Puklara , popular
with windsurfers and kitesurfers,
the historical village of Vicuña , the
laidback community of Pisco Elqui
and a pisco-tasting distillery, before
finishing with stargazing at the
Observatorio Mamalluca .

EATING, DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE
With many fish restaurants, Coquimbo is a seafood lover's
paradise, and also comes alive at night with lively pubs
and clubs - a popular drinking area is along Alduante
between Freire and Argandoña.
La Barceloneta Alduante 726 T 9 84212372. Offers an
exquisite menu featuring fish dishes with a Mediterranean
flavour, and transforms into a trendy bar at night, opening
until late. Set lunch CH$3000.

Vicuña
Sleepy Vicuña makes a convenient
stopover for exploring the Elqui Valley.