Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Los Porteños II Cochrane 102. Specializing in fresh fish
and seafood, this cheerful option is an extension of the
equally popular Los Porteños across the street. Pastel de
jaiba (crab pie) CH$5950.
El Sandwich Cubano O'Higgins 1221. Small and very
popular lunchtime stop serving excellent-value plates of
tasty ropa vieja (beef dish) with moros y cristianos (rice and
beans) for CH$2000.
Laundry Lavanderia Jerusalem, Condell 1176, Local 3
T 32 2219216. E cient launderette which washes by
the kilo. Five kilos wash and dry CH$4500.
Post o ce Prat 856 (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 10am-
1pm).
VIÑA DEL MAR
Though only fifteen minutes from
Valparaíso by public transport, VIÑA DEL
MAR could hardly be more different from
its grittier neighbour. Purpose-built in
the late nineteenth century as a weekend
getaway for wealthy Santiago and
Valparaíso residents, it draws thousands
of local holidaymakers during the
summer and on weekends. Viña makes
for an enjoyable day-trip to the beach,
and is especially worth a visit during the
week-long Festival de la Canción , held in
the second or third week of February,
which draws top Latino and international
artists. The city also hosts spectacular Año
Nuevo (New Year) celebrations, drawing
thousands of Chileans. Other festivals
include the two-week-long Feria del Libro
(Jan), which attracts important literary
figures and hosts live readings, and the
acclaimed Festival Cine Viña del Mar ilm
festival (Oct or Nov; W cinevina.cl).
DRINKING, NIGHTLIFE AND
ENTERTAINMENT
Bar La Playa Serrano 567 T 32 2259426. This historic
bar with a wood-panelled interior is an excellent spot
for a quiet beer in the afternoon, and at night transforms
into a buzzing dance spot. Thurs 10am-2am, Fri & Sat
10am-5am.
Cine Hoyts Pedro Montt 2111 W cinehoyts.cl. A five-
screen cinema showing the latest blockbuster releases.
El Coyote Quemado Subida Ecuador 144 T 32 2493478.
Dark two-tiered bar playing heavy rock. Packed with a
younger crowd. Daily 7pm-4am.
El Huevo Blanco 1386, W elhuevo.cl. Huge five-level
nightclub with different music on each one, packing a
student crowd. Entry CH$3000-5000. Mon-Sat from 9pm.
El Irlandés Blanco 1279 T 32 2543592, W elirlandes.cl.
A fairly raucous Irish pub run by an actual Irishman, and
offering a large selection of beers. Chilean stout Szot
CH$2900. Daily 5pm-4am.
J Cruz Condell 1466 T 322 211225. Along a gra ti-
covered passageway lies a somewhat legendary bar with
glass cabinets filled with all kinds of strange memorabilia.
It's an excellent place to enjoy a glass of wine and share
a greasy pile of chorrillana (meat with fries, onion and
fried egg). Mon-Sat noon-late.
Valparaíso Eterno Señoret 150, 2nd floor. Besides
offering reasonably priced meals and beers, this joint has
heaps of personality; some Sat nights a singer-songwriter
belts out Communist tunes. Fri & Sat 9.30pm-4am.
4
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
The city is split in two by the broad,
none-too-clean Marga Marga estuary,
with a largely residential area to the south
and most of the beaches in the northern
half. Avenida San Martín , parallel to the
beach, and the side streets off it feature
numerous dining and nightlife options.
At the heart of Viña lies the large,
shady Plaza Vergara , a popular spot
with the occasional busker or capoeira
demonstration and horse-drawn carriages
parked around it. Several blocks of
Avenida Valparaíso , Viña's main
thoroughfare, which runs from the
square's southwest corner, have been
pleasantly pedestrianized, with a number
of shops and places to eat.
DIRECTORY
Banks and exchange Prat has a number of banks,
ATMs and cambios; Banco de Chile, at Prat 698, also has
an ATM and there is a cambio at Plaza Sotomayor 11
which offers a decent exchange rate (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm
Sat 10am-1pm).
Hospital Hospital Carlos van Buren, San Ignacio 725, has
modern facilities ( T 32 2364000).
Internet There are several internet cafés on Cerro
Concepción and Cerro Alegre; most hostels have access as
well.
Language courses Interactive Spanish School, C Elias 571,
Cerro Cárcel T 9 2864973, T 32 2735351, W interactive
-spanish.cl. Spanish lessons of varying intensity offered with
or without homestay options.
The beaches
Playa Caleta Abarca lies in a sandy cove
south of Castillo Wulff , an impressive
castle-like structure built on a rocky
 
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