Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 393

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus Long-distance buses arrive at the Terminal
Rodoviario, Pedro Montt 2800 ( T 32 2939695), a 20min
walk from Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepción. There are
snack shops, an ATM and luggage storage inside.
Destinations Arica (5 daily; 24hr); Iquique (5 daily; 24hr);
Isla Negra (every 30min; 1hr 30min); La Serena (5 daily;
7hr); Puerto Montt (6 daily; 16hr); Santiago (every 10min;
1hr 45min).
By train Frequent trains from Viña del Mar stop at the
stations along the waterfront. Barón is the closest station
to Terminal Rodoviario, while Bellavista and Puerto are the
handiest for Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepción.

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
Pasta e Vino Templeman 352 T 32
2496187. Hands down, the best Italian
restaurant in the city and perhaps even in
all of Chile; each dish is lovingly prepared
and the flavours are faultless. Reservations
are essential. Pasta dishes CH$8000-
10,000. Closed Mon & Sun evening.

to your right, or take Asce nsor Espíritu Santo and walk
downhill for 200m. Doubles CH$25,000
Casa Aventura Pasaje Gálvez 11, Cerro Alegre T 32
2755963, W casaventura.cl. Hostel with friendly and know-
ledgeable staff, spotless dorms, a sunny lounge, kitchen
privileges and int ernet; popul ar with backpackers. Dorms
CH$9000 , doubles CH$22,000
Hostel Casa Valparaíso Pasaje Gálvez 173, Cerro Alegre
T 32 3194072, W casavalparaisohostel.blogspot.com.
Cheerful, family-run hostel with homely com munal spa ces,
wi-fi and a hearty breakfast included. Dorms CH$7000
Hostal Luna Sonrisa Templeman 833, Cerro Alegre
T 32 2734117, W lunasonrisa.cl. Professional hostel run
by Footprint guide author; fully equipped kitchen, tranquil
lounge with book exchange and large rooms with tall
ceilings in a central locati on make it a top choice. Good
breakfast included. Dorms CH$9000 , doubles CH$29,500
La Maison du Filou Papudo 579, Cerro Concepción
T 32 2124681, W lamaisondufilou.overblog.com. Colour-
ful double and twin rooms with high ceilings and wonderful
views; kitchen privileges, laundry service, book exchange,
wi-fi and breakfast incl uded. French and a smattering of
English spoken. Doubles CH$20,000
Residencia en el Cerro Pasaje Pierre Loti 51, Cerro
Concepción T 32 2495298, W residenciaenelcerro.cl. Large,
wonderfully friendly family-run place, with a good breakfast,
internet a nd a nu mber of cats t o keep you company. Dorms
CH$9000 , doubles CH$24,000

INFORMATION
Tourist information There are tourist information
kiosks on Muelle Prat and in the bus terminal (daily
10am-2pm & 3.30-5.30pm). The municipal tourism
o ce is at Condell 1490, first floor (Mon-Fri 8.30am-2pm
& 3.30-5.30pm; T 32 2939262, W ciudaddevalparaiso
.cl). Fundación Valparaíso, Héctor Calvo Cofre 205, Cerro
Bellavista ( T 32 2593156, W fundacionvalparaiso.cl),
runs various restoration projects around the city; its
“Bicentennial Heritage Trail” guide is full of curious trivia
about the city.

4

GETTING AROUND
By bus, colectivo and micro Frequent transport of
all sorts runs to and from Viña del Mar; look for “Viña”
displayed in the window. In El Plan, buses labelled
“Aduana” run west towards the centre along Pedro Montt
while “P. Montt” buses run back to the bus station; one-
way fares range between CH$230 and CH$400.
By metrotrén Fast, frequent, air-conditioned commuter
trains run to Viña del Mar and beyond from the stations
along the harbour (Mon-Fri every 12min, 6.15am-11pm;
Sat every 12min, 7.30am-11pm; Sun every 18min, 8am-
11pm; W merval.cl); you have to make a one-off purchase
of a swipe card (CH$1200) on top of the fares.
By tram Antique German trams offer limited but cheap
service around El Plan; just look for the rails (CH$250).

EATING
Alegretto Pilcomayo 529, Cerro Concepción. Complete
with an entertaining vintage jukebox, this Italian spot
serves good pizza and excellent gnocchi. Medium pizza
CH$6400.
Café Con Letras Almirante Montt 316, Cerro Alegre. A
popular artsy café with quirky decor and a book exchange;
serves a good range of real coffee, too. Espresso CH$1500.
El Desayunador Almirante Montt 399, Cerro Alegre. This
informal place offers generous servings of all-day breakfast
from 8.30am onwards. Energetico breakfast CH$4550.
Destajo Cumming 55. Takeaway offering excellent
empanadas with myriad meat, fish and vegetable fillings
- perfect for a late-night snack. Open all evening except
Sun. Empanada CH$750-1350.

ACCOMMODATION
Álecon Fine Hostel Abtao 684, Cerro Concepción
T 9 76823055, W alecon.cl. Wonderfully friendly family-
run guesthouse with airy single rooms, doubles, triples
and quads; excellent breakfast and internet are included
and the hostel offers a fre e Spanish la nguage course to
long-term guests. Doubles CH$25,000
Hostal Bellavista Pasaje Santa Lucia 5, Subida Ferrari,
Cerro Bellavista T 32 2121544, W arthostalbellavista.cl.
Arty hostel covered with murals and rooms named after
painters. Internet and breakfast included. To reach it, walk
up Av Ferrari for about 300m and take the stairs going up