Brazil - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 356

East coast beaches
Just 4km from Centrinho da Lagoa,
PRAIA MOLE is one of the most beautiful
beaches in Brazil, slightly hidden beyond
sand dunes and beneath low-lying cliffs.
Despite its popularity commercial activity
has remained low-key, probably because
there's a deep drop-off right at the water's
edge. Approached by a road passing
between gigantic dunes, the next beach
as you head south is at JOAQUINA ,
attracting serious surfers. The water's
cold, however, and the sea rough, only
really suitable for strong swimmers. If
you have the energy, climb to the top
of the dunes where you'll be rewarded
with the most spectacular views in all
directions. The beaches of the east coast
are accessed via the bus terminal in
Centrinho (TILAG; see p.357).
ACCOMMODATION
Cris Hotel Estrada Geral da Joaquina 1 T 48 3232 5104,
W crishotel.com.br. A/c rooms for up to five people over-
looking Joaqui na bea ch - the more expensive options
have balconies. R$140

Hostel & Camping Canasvieiras Rua Tertuliano Brito
Xavier 521 T 48 9111 9574, W hostelcampingcanasvieiras
.blogspot.com.br. This rustic camping option boasts a pool
and grill are as, as well as simple dorms. Open Dec-Feb
only. Dorms R$20 ; camping/person R$20

West coast beaches
The principal places of interest on the
west coast are SANTO ANTÔNIO DE
LISBOA to the north of Florianópolis
and RIBEIRÃO DA ILHA to the south.
These are the island's oldest and least
spoilt settlements, their houses almost
all painted white with dark blue sash
windows, in typical Azorean style, and
both villages have a simple colonial
church. Fishing, rather than catering to
the needs of tourists, remains the
principal activity, and the waters offshore
from Santo Antônio are used to farm
mussels and oysters, considered the best
on the island. Because the beaches are
small and face the mainland, tourism has
remained low-key. Accommodation is
limited and the few visitors here tend to
be on day-trips, staying just long enough
to sample oysters at a local bar.

3

Canasvieiras
The island's built-up north coast offers safe
swimming in calm, warm seas and is
popular with families. The long, gently
curving bay of CANASVIEIRAS is the most
crowded of the northern resorts (27km
north of Floripa), largely geared towards
Argentine families who own or rent houses
near the beach. By walking away from the
concentration of bars at the centre, towards
Ponta das Canas , it's usually possible to find
a relatively quiet spot.
Unless you're renting a house for a week
or more (agencies abound, among them
W ibiubi.com.br and W aluguetemporada
.com.br), finding accommodation is
difficult, as the unappealing hotels are
usually booked solid throughout the
summer. The local restaurants mostly
offer the same menu of prawn dishes,
pizza and hamburgers.
ACCOMMODATION
Floripa Hostel Rua Dr João de Oliveira T 48 3225 3781,
W floripahostel.com.br. Decent budget option, with shared
kitchen, colour TV and eating area offe ring w onderful views
across the coast. Dorms R$30 , doubles R$80

ACCOMMODATION
Pousada Mar de Dentro Rua Caminho dos Açores 1929,
Santo Antônio T 48 3235 1521, W pousadamardedentro
.com.br. A lovely setting right on the beach, and with a tiny
pool. Offers apartments with at least two bedrooms, a/c,
cable TV and balconies, so good o ption f or groups. Rates
halve in low season (March-Nov). R$230
Pousada do Museu T 48 3237 8148, W pousadado
museu.com.br. In the heart of Ribeirão da Ilha, try this
simple option, which has som e room s with glorious sea
views and a decent restaurant. R$180

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
Ostradamus Rodovia Baldicero Filomeno
7640 T 48 3337 5711, W ostradamus.com
.br. For a splash-out meal in Ribeirão, the
rather kitsch restaurant serves up creative
dishes such as a dozen oysters with
martini and lemon (R$32), as well as
delicious mains - despite the high prices
and long waits for tables this is easily one
of the island's best places to eat. Try the
seafood risotto, washed down with local
wine (mains $65-99). Tues-Sat
noon-11pm, Sun noon-5.30pm.