Brazil - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 350

BRAZIL THE SOUTH
ILHA DE SÃO FRANCISCO DO SUL
Travelling 135km south from Curitiba
into the state of Santa Catarina the
coastline becomes the main attraction,
with the beaches of ILHA DE SÃO
FRANCISCO DO SUL well worth a
diversion off the main highway. A
low-lying island separated from the
mainland by a narrow strait some 40km
east of the industrial port city of Joinville
and the site of a major Petrobras oil
refinery, it might be reasonable to assume
that São Francisco should be avoided,
but this isn't the case. Both the port and
refinery keep a discreet distance from
the main town, São Francisco do Sul ,
and the beaches blend perfectly with
the slightly dilapidated colonial setting.
On the east coast, Praia de Ubatuba ,
16km from the centre, and the adjoining
Praia de Enseada , 20km from town, offer
enough surf for you to have fun but not
enough to be dangerous. A ten-minute
walk across the peninsula from the
eastern end of Enseada leads to Praia da
Saúdade (or just Prainha), where the
waves are suitable for only the most
experienced surfers.

Surprisingly few people take advantage of
the calm and shallow waters here, which
are ideal for weak swimmers.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus The island is connected to the mainland by two
causeways, but the rodoviário is inconveniently located
outside São Francisco do Sul centre on Rua Dom Fernando
Trejo y Sanabria (just off the main highway); you'll need
to catch a local bus (R$2.40) to the market in the town
centre. Buses to the beaches at Enseada and Ubatuba leave
from the market, with the last services in both directions
departing at about 9.30pm.
Destinations Curitiba (daily; 3hr); Joinville (hourly; 1hr
20min); São Paulo (daily; 8hr).

3

ACCOMMODATION
Most of the island's visitors bypass the town altogether
and head straight for the beaches to the east, so, even
in midsummer, there's rarely any di culty in finding a
central hotel.
Kontiki Rua Babitonga 33, near the market in São
Francisco do Sul T 47 3444 2232, W hotelkontiki.com.br.
Located in the heart of the old town directly in front of
the bay, this comfortable hotel has wonderful views
and a “col onial- style” (which basically means indulgent)
breakfast. R$82
Pousada Farol da Ilha Enseada, just behind the beach
on Rua Maceió 1156 T 47 3449 1802, W pousadafarol
dailha.tur.br. This little family-run place, only 300m from
the beach, also has its own pool. The rooms are decorated
in a rustic style and it's particularly popular with couples.
There i is a discount for rooms with a shared bathroom.
R$156
Zibamba Rua Fernando Dias 27, São Francisco do
Sul T 47 3444 2020, W hotelzibamba.com.br. Relatively
luxurious, this attra ctive co lonial-style hotel has its own
pool and restaurant. R$160

São Francisco do Sul
Though the island was first visited by
French sailors in 1504, it was not until
1658 that the town of SÃO FRANCISCO
DO SUL was established by the
Portuguese. One of the oldest settlements
in the state, it is also one of the very
few places in Santa Catarina with a
well-preserved historic centre.

EATING AND DRINKING
Eating out holds no great excitement, with the Zibamba 's
(see above) restaurant the best of a generally poor bunch
serving up a seafood buffet at lunch and typical Brazilian
dishes à la carte in the evenings. Enseada does have
a lively nightlife, though.
Bar do Banana Av Brasilia at João Pessoa, Prainha
T 47 3444 0785, W bardobanana.com.br. Popular with
twenty-somethings (and cruise-ship passengers) looking
for reasonably priced drinks, food and fun by the sea. Daily
11am-11pm.
Surf Bar Av Brasilia 15, Prainha T 47 3442 4234,
W surfbarsc.com.br. Unpretentious and popular bar hosting
regular live music acts and DJs from Floripa (Fri & Sat). Daily
11am-1am.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Dominating the city's skyline is the Igreja
Matriz Nossa Senhora da Graça , the main
church, originally built in 1699 by Indian
slaves, but completely reconstructed in
1926. he Museu Nacional do Mar on
Rua Manoel Lourenço de Andrade in the
historic centre (Tues-Sun 10am-6pm;
R$5; W museunacionaldomar.com.br)
has a vast maritime collection with an
emphasis on southern Brazil and its
people. The prettiest beaches, Paulos and
Ingleses , are also the nearest to town, just
a couple of kilometres to the east. Both
are small, and have trees to provide shade.