Brazil - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 337

HOTELS
VILA MADALENA AND JARDIM PAULISTA
Bali Rua Fradique Coutinho 740, Pinheiros T 11 3812
8270, W hotelbali.com.br; map p.338. The mirrors behind
the beds make you wonder if it's not a “love motel” at first,
but thoug h bas ic, it stands up to scrutiny. Near Vila
Madalena. R$80
Gold Hotel Alameda Jaú 2008, Jardins T 11 3085 0805,
W hotelgold.com.br; map p.338. On a noisy corner two
blocks from Av Paulista, but has some serious personality,
with decor that's Greek diner meets kitsch Taj Mahal. l. Funky
red rooms with doors with room service openings. R$110
Paulista Center Hotel Rua da Consolação 2567 T 11
3062 0733, W paulistacenterhotel.com.br; map p.338.
A crisp business hotel just off Paulista. Excelle nt deals for
public holidays, Carnaval and new year. R$160
CENTRAL SÃO PAULO AND BIXIGA
Banri Hotel Rua Galvão Bueno 209, Liberdade T 11 3207
8877; map p.335. There may be cracking plaster in the
hallways but this is one hotel where the rooms are better
than the public spaces. Good v alue, a lmost stylish, and
near great Japanese restaurants. R$110
Ibis Rua Vergueiro 1571, Paraiso 1571 T 11 5085 5699,
W ibis.com; map pp.332-333. Right by the metrô near Av
Paulista, good value but the last word in characterlessness.
All rooms sleep three for the same price as two; breakfast
and wi-fi not included. Other Ibis an d sister Formule1
hotels dotted around São Paulo. R$160

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
D.O.M. Rua Barão de Capanema 549
T 11 3088 0761, W domrestaurante
.com.br; map p.338. One of Brazil's best
restaurants, starring celebrated chef Alex
Atala. There's no better way to do it than
by working your way through the tasting
menu, around R$120. Mon-Fri lunch and
dinner; Sat dinner only; closed Sun.
Figueira Rubaiyat Rua Haddock Lobo
1738, Jardins T 11 3063 3888; map p.338.
Built around a massive, golden-lit,
130-year-old majestic fig tree, this place
serves the city's best steak, feijoada and
Brazilian specialities. Around R$110 per
person (unlimited food); great for a
splurge. Mon-Sat lunch and dinner;
Sun noon-6pm.

3

buffet (Tues-Sun) at the best mineiro restaurant in São
Paulo. Try the full range of typical meat and vegetable
dishes (vegetarians catered for), cachaças and desserts.
Double the price at night. Closed Mon; Sun lunch only until
4.30pm.
Ponto Chic Largo do Paissandu 27, Centro Novo T 11
3222 6528; map p.335. Established in 1922, this low-key
sandwich shop does a scrumptious bauru with roast beef,
four cheeses, tomato and pickle on baguette (R$17), plus
other meaty goodies. Mon-Sat 7am-8pm.
Uni Alquimia Culinaria MASP, Av Paulista 1578 T 11
3253 2829; map p.338. This basement buffet is not the
typical museum cafeteria. For R$36 you can endlessly
sample the more than sixty types of salads, hot dishes and
desserts. Lunch only daily.

EATING
São Paulo hosts by far Brazil's best selection of restaurants,
and you'll feel the need to splurge. Take advantage of the
excellent Mercado Municipal at lunchtimes (its upstairs
food court is good value, too). A range of cheap por quilo
restaurants is located along Rua Augusta, north of Av
Paulista. Also keep in mind that at night all bars serve
food, with Vila Madalena known for high-quality options.
Note that restaurants listed below open daily for lunch
and dinner unless otherwise stated.

ITALIAN AND ARABIC
For really decent Italian food, head to bairro Bixiga, where
you can take your pick of at least ten budget places along
Rua 13 de Maio.
Espaço Árabe Rua Oscar Freire 168, Jardins T 11 3081
1824; map p.338. This large and welcoming restaurant does
great, tasty chargrilled chicken and steak kebabs, hummus
and other excellent Middle Eastern food (from R$25).
Famiglia Mancini Rua Avanhandava 81, Bixiga T 11
3256 4320; map p.335. Great antipasti, lasagne and other
pasta at this mid-priced and highly popular restaurant,
with another branch serving high-quality pizza just
opposite. Open until the small hours at weekends.
Speranza Av Sabiá, 786, Moema T 11 5051 1229; map
pp.332-333. This labyrinthine pizza house with balcony
seating has been open since 1958, and successfully
replicates genuine Neapolitan pizza (from R$35). Daily;
Mon dinner only.

BRAZILIAN
Bovinu's Grill Alameda Santos 2100, Jardins; Rua Augusta
1513, Consolação; map p.338. Cheap-ish churrascaría
rodízio and por quilo restaurants; often packed out. Spend
around R$35 for a lunch all-you-can-eat buffet with
numerous meats, salads, stews and fish (double the price
at night).
Consulado Mineiro Restaurante Praça Benedito
Calixto 74, Pinheiros T 11 3064 3882; map p.338. Satisfying
fare from Minas Gerais at this popular choice in Jardins/
Pinheiros. Crowded at weekends. Two can share one (huge)
portion for around R$65. Daily; Sun lunch only until 6pm.
Ì Dona Lucinha Av Chibarás 399, Moema T 11 5051
2050; map pp.332-333. Excellent unlimited R$37 lunch