Basics - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 28

a car, make sure you check the quality of vehicle
(standards are lower than in Europe and the US) and
your insurance cover. Driving standards are poor,
so beware, especially at night. Honk your horn before
going round any corner - the locals do this with great
gusto, so no one will find you rude. South Americans
drive on the right except in Suriname and Guyana.
Useful websites for driving in South America include
W drivetheamericas.com and W driveabroad.co.uk.

buses, but services in popular tourist areas can be
pricey. Two of the most famous routes are from Cusco
to the start of the Inca Trail (see p.762) in Peru and
the Serra Verde Express (see p.349) between Curitiba
and the coast in Brazil. There are several types of train,
including the fast and e cient ferrotren , stopping
at major stations only; the average tren rápido ; the
slower expreso , which stops at most stations; and the
super-slow and amazingly cheap mixto , which stops
for everyone - and their livestock too.

By air

By boat
There are several ferry and catamaran services
on South America's lakes , especially in Chile,
Argentina, Peru and Bolivia, providing unforgettable
views. Those relevant to a single country are
explored in the country chapter but there are two
cross-border crossings that are recommended:
the Southern Lakes Crossing (see p.444) between
Argentina and Chile, and the Lake Titicaca Crossing
(p.158) between Bolivia and Peru.
One of the finest ways to soak up the slow pace of
South American life is to travel some of the conti-
nent's rivers by boat. Unfortunately, the riverboat
industry is in decline, especially on the Amazon, with
more passengers flying and cargo-only replacing
many travel boats. However, several riverboat services
survive, recommended for anyone with time and
patience, particularly on the narrower, less-frequented
rivers. Shop around, as boats vary hugely in quality.
Your ticket will include hammock space and basic
food, but drinks are extra and will probably be
expensive on board - it's best to bring your own
supplies. You should also bring a hammock, rope,
insect repellent and a sleeping bag, and aim to be on
board well before departure to ensure that you don't
get put right next to the toilets.

Several budget airlines have sprung up in recent
years, although they are still more expensive than US
or European counterparts. You can normally check-in
online, but always find out whether flights need
reconfirming. Remember that distances are large and
may involve a stopover. Budget airlines include Brazil's
Gol ( W voegol.com.br), Chile's Sky ( W skyairline.cl) and
Colombia's EasyFly ( W easyfly.com.co).

Airpasses
If you plan to do a lot of travelling around South
America, consider one of the reasonable airpasses .
These are a godsend if you want to see as much as
possible in a limited time.
All Airpass ( W allairpass.com) is a useful website
for checking the different “airpass” offers out there
from regional airlines. The passes are only available
to travellers with a scheduled international return
ticket and they have to be purchased outside South
America. After you have used the first sector on your
pass the ticket is non-refundable. Prices range from
US$500 to US$1300 depending on the number of
stops and area covered.
The Mercosur Airpass covers travel in Argentina,
Brazil, Chile, Paraguay and Uruguay. Prices are calcu-
lated on a kilometres-flown basis. There is a maximum
of two stopovers and four flight coupons for each
country, and the pass is valid for seven to thirty days.
The pass is available directly from the participating
airlines (including Gol, Aerolíneas Argentinas and
Austral). You can rebook to change dates (but not
reroute); contact the individual airlines for more
details. Both LAN ( W lan.com) and TAM ( W tam.com
.br) also offer their own airpasses for routes they fly.

By bicycle
If you're fit and hardy enough to consider cycling
in South America, there are a few common-sense
rules. Given the terrain, a mountain bike is best,
unless you stick to paved roads and well-travelled
routes. Taking on some of the Andean roads, though,
is an experience hard to rival. In adventure travel
centres, especially in Argentina and Chile, bikes can
be rented for short periods, but if you're doing
serious cycling, bring your own. Bikes and bike parts
tend to be of a lower quality in South America than
in other parts of the world, so give your bike a
thorough check before you go. Carry a basic repair
kit and check the bike daily when you arrive. Weather

By train
Trains are much less frequent and e cient than
South American buses, but if you have a little time
to spare they provide a wonderful way to see the
countryside and wildlife, as they tend to travel more
exotic routes. Typically they are less expensive than