Brazil - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 312

NIGHTLIFE
There are some good bars in the centre of town, but if you
really want to get immersed in Manaus nightlife, the bulk
of the action is on Estrada do Turismo, northwest of the city
(taxi R$60), where bars line the avenue. Alternatively, try
Praça do Caranguejo in El Dorado (taxi R$40), also home to
many bars and restaurants.
Bar do Armando Rua 10 de Julho 593 T 92 3232 1195.
As old-school as it gets, this cavernous bar has beer crates
stacked high against the back walls and ancient football
strips dangling from the ceiling. For forty years now, it's
where people have been heading for an ice-cold beer
(Brahma R$6) after a tough day's work, with tables spilling
out onto the pavement and looking onto the square and
the Opera House. Mon-Sat 5/5.30pm-1/2am.
Cervejeria Fellice Studio 5, Festival Mall, Rua Rodrigo
Otávio 3555, Distrito Industrial T 92 3216 3400,
W cervejariafellice.com.br. The glass and steel overload -
with fermentation tanks looming over the tables - hardly
makes for a mellow atmosphere, but this artisan brewery
and bar is justifiably proud of its traditional ale, lager and
wheat beer; if you've endured one can of Skol too many, a
foaming glass of chopp will be R$4.50 well spent. Regular
live music (cover R$10-20) runs the gamut from samba
and pagode to Iron Maiden tributes. Mon-Fri 11.30am-
late, Sat & Sun 5pm-late.
Porão do Alemão Estrada da Ponta Negra 1986 T 92 3239
2976, W poraodoalemao.com.br. There's no getting away

from the fact that Brazilians can't get enough of their hoary
Anglophone rock, and - with its inimitable logo of the opera
house in flames - this place is Manaus' original, hugely
popular shrine to the genre. Live music most nights, with the
usual mix of tribute acts and young hopefuls; R$20 cover for
the bigger shows. Beers start at R$5. Wed-Sat 9pm-late.

SHOPPING
Artesanato Available from the Museu do Índio (p.313)
and several shops around the square in front of the Teatro
Amazonas. The best selection (and the most fun way to
shop) is at the Sunday-morning street market that appears
out of nowhere in the broad Avenida Eduardo Ribeira,
behind the Teatro Amazonas. Indian crafts are also sold at
the Mercado Municipal (under renovation at the time of
research) and artesanato (including handmade jewellery)
at the stalls on Praça Terreira Aranha. Interesting macumba
and umbanda items, such as incense, candles, figurines
and bongos, can be found at Cabana Pomba Gira on Rocha
dos Santos 92, corner of Rua Miranda.
Hammocks A good hammock shop is Casa das Redes on
Rua dos Andradas.

3

DIRECTORY
Banks and exchange There are ATMs that accept
foreign cards at the airport and several banks on Av
Eduardo Ribeiro, just a block or two down the street from
the tourist o ce.

THE RIO SOLIMÕES: CROSSING TO PERU AND COLOMBIA
From Manaus to Iquitos in Peru (see p.813), the river remains navigable by large ocean-going
boats as well as the occasional smaller, more locally oriented riverboats. In spite of the
discomforts, such as long delays and frequently broken-down boats, travellers still use this
route as it's the cheapest way of travelling between Brazil and Peru.
There are reasonable facilities for visitors in the border town of Tabatinga , though most
people prefer to stay in the adjacent Colombian town of Leticia (see p.560). All boats have to
stop at one of these ports, and most will terminate at the border, whichever direction they've
come from. If you want to break the journey before you reach the three-way border, you can do
so at Tefé fé , around halfway. The main reason to call here is to visit the Mamiraua Sustainable
Development Reserve ( T 97 3343 9700, W mamiraua.org.br), an accessible, beautiful and wild
area of rainforest upstream from the town. Entering the reserve is pricey, though - a three-day
pass costs R$1290. Another reason for stopping here might be that you really can't face the boat
journey any longer: there are flights available (see below) to Tabatinga.
GETTING AROUND
By boat There is a daily express boat service (12-
13hr; R$200-230) connecting Manaus with Tefé.
From Manaus to Tabatinga there are regular and
express boats running upstream. The downstream
journey, which is often very crowded, takes two to four
days and costs around R$300; there's also a twice-
weekly express service (32hr; R$500). On the other
side of the border, there are super-fast powerboats or

standard riverboats connecting Tabatinga to Iquitos
(see box, p.821).
By plane Trip/Azul operate daily flights between
Tefé and Manaus, as well as weekly flights between
Tefé and Tabatinga. If you want to fly from Tabatinga
to Iquitos your best bet is flights with the Peruvian air
force (PAF) from Caballo Cocha (see box, p.821), a 2hr
journey by boat from Santa Rosa, an insignificant
Peruvian settlement at the three-way border.