Brazil - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 303

6am; 24hr); Manaus (Tues, Wed & Fri 6pm; 5-6 days);
Santarém (Tues, Wed & Fri 6pm; 2-3 days).

(shrimp soup) stalls on Av Nazaré, close to Quintino
Bocaiúva. In the evenings, head to the Estaçao das Docas
where all places stay open till late.
Ì Govinda Travessa Padre Prudêncio 166 T 91 3222
2272, W restaurantegovinda.com.br. Far and away the
best quality in town for the price (R$18), with a daily two-
course set lunch of delicious vegetarian Indian food (plus
salad and suco ), subtly spiced and - in contrast to the
usual Brazilian super-size-me - sensibly portioned. The
food changes daily and may include anything from curried
sweet potato to dhal to rice with toasted almonds. Don't
miss a shot of the heavenly milk-based chai to finish up.
Mon-Fri 11.30am-3pm, Sat noon-2.30pm.
Lá em Casa Estação das Docas T 91 3212 5588,
W laemcasa.com. Founded in the early 1970s by the late
Slow Food advocate and pioneer of Amazonian cuisine,
Paulo Martins, no other restaurant in Belém commands
quite the same combination of die-hard local following
and international media coverage, with its legendary
paraense ( southern) nosh available as either a lunchtime
all-you-can-eat (R$28), or evening à la carte. In among
myriad exotic fish and seafood prato s, their signature
dish is o pato no tucupi : duck in an astringent soup
(R$45). Mon-Thurs & Sun noon-midnight, Fri & Sat
noon-2am.
Nunes Travessa Rui Barbosa 974 T 91 3083 9611. You
can't get any more traditional than this - the garrulous
owner has pretty much set up shop in his living room.
Superb soups for a bargain R$3, while the prato of the day
costs R$5. Mon-Fri & occasional Sat 10.30am-3pm.
Tapioquinha de Mosqueiro Rua dos Pariquis 1981-B
T 91 3242 5240, W tapioquinhademosqueiro.com.br.
If you thought tapioca was a frogspawn-esque hangover
from old school dinners, this place might just change your
mind. Locals have been lapping up the chewy, almost
meringue-like pancakes at this famous tapiocaria for
years, with both sweet and savoury versions starting at
only R$2.50; try the pupunha (a selenium-rich palm fruit),
if it's in season (R$4.50) . Tues-Thurs 6.30am-noon &
3.30-8.30pm, Fri-Sun 6.30am-9pm.

INFORMATION AND TOURS
Tourist information In the few short hours they're
open, Belémtur are OK for maps but struggle with much
else; their deserted-feeling o ce at Av Gov. José Malcher
257 (Mon-Fri 9am-2pm; T 91 3230 3920) is hidden away
across a courtyard opposite the municipal library.
Tour operators Valeverde Turismo, in the Estaçao das
Docas ( T 91 3218 7333, W valeverdeturismo.com.br),
organize good-value river tours around Belém, as well as
city tours. Amazon Star Turismo, Rua Henrique Gurjão 210
( T 91 3241 8624, W amazonstar.com.br), is an excellent
French-run agency specializing in ecotours, including
visits to Ilha de Marajó and various jungle lodges around
Manaus.

3

ACCOMMODATION
Amazônia Rua Ó de Almeida 548 T 91 3222 8456,
W hotelamazoniabelem.com.br. A warren-like tumult of
narrow wooden staircases and platforms with a DIY feel,
offering a solitary 4-person dorm and some d ark-ish
rooms. An alt ernative if Fortaleza is full. Dorms R$20 ,
doubles R$45
Amazônia Hostel Av Gov. José Malcher 592 T 91 4141
8833, W amazoniahostel.com.br. An immaculately kept
Hi-a liated hostel in a lovely old mansion, with polished
hardwood floors and stratospherically high ceilings,
though the usual colonial layout means rooms give onto
a corridor rather than an outside window. There's a kitchen,
internet facilities, lockers, free w i-fi and a/c in all dorms.
Breakfast included. Dorms R$48 , doubles R$75
Fortaleza Travessa Frutuoso Guimaraes 276 T 91 3212
1055. This rambling old colonial house, frayed but with
character to spare, is presided over by the formidable
Gilda Castro and family, and is often full of French
backpackers en route to or from French Guiana. Rooms and
dorms are basic but you'll instantly be made to feel at
home among the whitewashed walls and old wooden
floors. Wi-fi promised soo n. Tak e care at night as the area
can be dangerous. Dorms R$20 , doubles R$45
Ì Grão Pará Av Presidente Vargas 718 T 91 3221 2121,
W hotelgraopara.com.br. By far the best mid-range value
on Vargas' busy thoroughfare, with a huge modern recep-
tion and inviting a/c rooms with desks, lamps, flawless
bathrooms and a generally upmarket standard you'd
usually only find in a much more expensive business hotel.
Breakfast included. R$100

NIGHTLIFE
Belém has some of the most talked-about nightlife
in Brazil, with the 80s-pop-cum-primitive synth-rooted
tecnobrega scene having made headlines around the
world, both for its suburban warehouse parties
commanded by über-DJs, and for its creative subversion of
artistic copyright; the inimitable Gaby Amarantos remains
the genre's reigning queen. Most of the action takes place
far from the centre of town; ask around for upcoming
events. Even during the week you'll see plenty of people
hanging out in town having drinks until late; you'll find
many bars along Av Almirante Wandekolk and in the
Estação das Docas.

EATING AND DRINKING
Belém boasts plenty of excellent cheap restaurants,
which have especially good deals at lunchtime. There's also
excellent street food by the main docks, and good tacacá