Brazil - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 289

add up, and it's best to agree a rough price with the driver
before you set off; count on paying at least R$10 for even
the shortest journey.

also a kitchen, paved patio with ha mmoc ks, a po ol table
and wi-fi. Breakfast included. Dorms R$50 , doubles R$110
Piratas da Praia Av Cons Aguiar 2034 (3rd floor), at Rua
Prf. Osias Ribeiro T 81 3326 1281, W piratasdapraia.com.
Neat pastel dorms with primary-coloured portraiture
and a choice of fan or a/c. Lockers available, discount
for HI members, and wi-fi. Also some r ooms and small
apartm ents. Breakf ast inc luded. Dorms R$40 , doubles
R$140 , apartments R$150
Pousada Casuarinas Rua Antônio Pedro Figueiredo 151
T 81 3325 4708, W pousadacasuarinas.com.br. Grab a
book and lie back in one of the hammocks in the leafy
outdoor area or have a dip in the pool. The pastel yellow
rooms have tiled floors, tiny lamps and wooden motifs,
and some have an outdoor veranda. Laundr y and wi-fi.
Single rates are available. Breakfast included. R$195

INFORMATION AND TOURS
Tourist information The state tourist board (SETUR)
runs several information posts, some of which have good
English-speakers - most have useful, free maps and event
calendars: the most friendly and helpful o ce is at the
airport (24hr; T 81 3182 8299), where they can also
reserve hotels. There are branches at the rodoviária (daily
8am-8.30pm; T 81 3182 8298), in Recife Antigo at Rua da
Guia (daily 8.30am-9pm; T 81 3355 3402) and at Praça
de Boa Viagem (8am-8pm; T 81 3182 8297). For online
info, try the comprehensive W recife.info, though it's often
longer on superlatives than detail.
Tour operators Martur, Rua Dr Nilo Dornelas Câmara 90,
Loja 02, Boa Viagem ( T 81 3312 3666, W martur.com.br),
organize flights, cruises and trips to Fernando de Noronha.
There's also an o ce at the airport ( T 81 3213 1404).

3

EATING AND DRINKING
RECIFE ANTIGO, BOA VISTA AND
THE SUBURBS
Brotfabrik Rua da Moeda 87, Recife Antigo T 81 3424
2250, W brotfabrik.com.br. Bakery specializing in German
rye bread but also selling excellent coffee, salgados (R$2),
pastries, sandwiches (R$6.70) and bite-sized pizzas (R$6.40),
as the constant queue attests. The perfect spot to grab a quick
bite as you tour the city. Mon-Fri 7am-8pm.
Parraxaxá Rua Igarassu 40, Casa Forte T 81 3463 7874,
W parraxaxa.com.br. A little piece of the desert trans-
planted to the city, this celebrated por quilo place is
themed around the talismanic sertão bandit, Lampião,
with cantina -style tables and chairs, and a daily buffet
bulging under the weight of backcountry specialities
such as paçoca , sun-dried beef and all manner of
deliciously stodgy puddings. Prices are per 100g: R$4.29
on weekdays, R$4.49 at weekends. A perfect lunch stop
after the nearby Museu do Homem do Nordeste (see
p.290). Daily 11.30am-11pm.

ACCOMMODATION
By far the cheapest place to stay is Boa Vista, midway
between Boa Viagem, Santo Antônio and Recife Antigo,
though most of the city's hotels and hostels are located in
Boa Viagem. If you don't mind staying in a soulless high-
rise, the beach may compensate for the steep prices.
Olinda (see p.295) is also expensive, if offset by the charm
of its colonial conversions. As ever, if you want to visit
during Carnaval, you'll need to book months in advance.

BOA VISTA
Ì Central Av Manoel Borba 209, Boa Vista T 81 3222
2353. The celebrity guests - Carmen Miranda and Orson
Welles among them - may have long gone, but this
handsomely decaying old hotel still has many of its
original features including window shutters, stone steps
and cage lift, with a lovely, slightly eccentric staff to match.
While the en suites have a/c, the clean, spartan coletivo
(shared toilet) rooms are probably the best bargain in the
city. Ten percent di scount if you book two nights or more.
Breakfast included. R$60

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
La Douane Bistro Paço de Alfândega 35,
Recife Antigo T 81 3224 5799, W ladouane
.com.br. Located in a shopping centre
(see p.295), but don't let this put you off,
as the historic building is a beautifully
renovated customs house. Waiting staff
are immaculately turned out and the food
is Mediterranean in flavour with a Brazilian
bent - if you're feeling flush, splash out
on the bacalhau gratinado with garlic
purée (R$100); if not, go for the veggie
pasta with artichoke and palm heart
(R$35.70). Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, Sat
noon-10pm, Sun noon-5.30pm.

BOA VIAGEM
Albergue da Juventude Maracatus do Recife Rua
Maria Carolina 185 T 81 3326 1221. Bare but clean and
functional tiled dorms, some with leafy views, in a secure
setting with friendly staff. A bed sheet co sts R$ 2 extra,
towels R$3, and there's no breakfast. Dorms R$30
Arrecifes Hostel Rua Joâo Cardoso Ayres 560 T 81 3462
5867, W arrecifeshostel.com.br. One of Boa Viagem's
newest hostels, this HI-a liated place is perfectly pitched
between the airport and the beach. The tiled rooms are
basic but spotless, with a choice of a/c or fan, and there's