Brazil - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 275

SALVADOR'S BEACHES
All of the beaches listed below can be reached by bus (heading to either “Vilas do Atlântico” or
“Praias do Flamengo”) from Praça da Sé.
Jardim de Alah Perfect for long walks
thanks to the large and spacious sandy
beach; also good for surfing.
Praia da Onda This beach in Ondina is
good for surfing (although watch the rocks)
and even fishing.
Praia de Aleuluia The perfect spot to grab
some lunch at one of the many bars or
restaurants along the beach. Good waves
for surfing too.
Praia de Itapoã One of the most scenic
beaches, mainly because of its tall, lilting
palm trees.
Praia de Jaguanibe Strong winds make
this a perfect spot to surf, windsurf and
kite-surf.

Praia de Stella Maris Good for long walks
as well as surfing.
Praia do Farol da Barra Windswept palms
and thatched huts punctuate this small,
rocky beach near the lighthouse.
Praia do Porto da Barra The closest
swimming beach to historic Salvador is calm
and narrow, and just a short bus ride away.
Aldeia Hippie In Arembepe, about 50km
from Salvador, the long beach here was
made famous by Mick Jagger and Janis
Joplin in the 1960s. Though often
crowded, there are still peaceful spots to
be found, and many people come to take
a dip in the Capivara River. Frequent buses
from the rodoviária .

3

ornate Baroque buildings in a single,
large complex dedicated to St Francis:
the Igreja de São Francisco and the Igreja
da Ordem Terceira de São Francisco
(daily 8am-5pm). The latter was erected
at the beginning of the eighteenth
century as a display of wealth and power
by Portuguese colonizers keen to
demonstrate to the world their imperial
might in the Americas. Over 100kg of
gold was transported here and used to
decorate the Baroque interior; the ornate
walls display imperious paintings as well
as azulejos (glazed coloured tiles).

displays here are devoted both to the
author's life and the contrasting (and
controversial) themes of his books, from
social realism to sexual mores. You can
have fun spotting his rich and famous
friends in the collection of photographs.

Mercado Modelo
Cidade Baixa has few sights, but it is well
worth the effort to get to the Mercado
Modelo (Mon-Sat 9am-7pm, Sun
9am-4pm), which is full of Bahian
handicrafts, trinkets and beachwear
- great for gifts and souvenirs - though
be prepared to haggle a little. You'll find
it across the street from the bottom of the
Lacerda elevator, behind a row of outdoor
handicraft stalls.

Largo do Pelourinho
The beautiful, cobbled Largo do
Pelourinho , down narrow Rua Alfredo de
Brito, has changed little since the
eighteenth century. Lined with solid
colonial mansions, it's topped by the
Asian-looking towers of the Igreja da
Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos
(daily 9am-6pm; free), built by and for
slaves and still with a largely black
congregation. Across from here is the
Fundação Casa de Jorge Amado (Mon-Fri
9am-6pm, Sat 10am-5pm; free), a
museum given over to the life and work
of the hugely popular modern novelist,
author of 25 works including the
critically acclaimed Captains of the Sands
and Gabriela, Clove and Cinnamon ; the

Colonial forts
Above Pelourinho in Santo Antônio is
the Forte Santo Antônio Além do Carmo
(free), which is now home to several
capoeira schools that have rechristened it
Forte da Capoeira . There are terrific views
of the city from inside the fort.
Another fort worth visiting is the Forte
de Santo Antônio da Barra , past the beach
at Praia do Porto da Barra , at the end of
the peninsula. The site of South America's
first lighthouse, it now houses the Museu
Náutico da Bahia (Tues-Sun 8.30am-
7pm, open daily in July; R$6). The sea