Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
SALVADOR
Dramatically set at the mouth of the
enormous bay of Todos os Santos, its old
city atop a cliff,
peninsular
SALVADOR
has
an extraordinary energy. Its foundation in
1549 marked the beginning of Brazil's
permanent occupation by the Portuguese.
It wasn't an easy birth: before they were
eventually subdued, the Caeté Indians
killed and ate both the first governor
and bishop. Then, in 1624, the Dutch
destroyed the Portuguese fleet in the
bay and took the town by storm, only
to be forced out within a year by a joint
Spanish and Portuguese fleet.
These days, there's a strange feeling to
the old town - the number of tourist
shops makes it feel a little like a Brazilian
colonial Disneyland. This is Brazil,
however, so the crowds of tourists also
attract traders, anglers and hustlers who
are bound to ensure a colourful stay.
If you tire of the city, go down to the
pier and grab a boat for the choppy ride
over to
Morro de São Paulo
, an island
with beautiful beaches that's just two
hours away.
touristed centre of the city where you'll
find most of the bars, restaurants,
hostels and pousadas. This cliff-top area
is linked to the more earthy financial
and commercial district,
Cidade Baixa
(lower city), by precipitous streets,
a funicular railway and the towering
Art Deco lift shaft of the
Carlos Lacerda
elevator
(daily 24hr; R$0.50), the city's
largest landmark. Stretching down the
cliff and along the coast are beaches, forts
and expensive hotels:
Barra
is a quieter
neighbourhood where you will find more
restaurants and pousadas.
3
Praça Municipal
Praça Municipal
, Cidade Alta's main
square overlooking Cidade Baixa, is
the place to begin exploring. Dominating
the
praça
is the
Palácio do Rio Branco
(Mon-Fri 9am-6pm; free), the old
governor's palace, burnt down and rebuilt
during the Dutch wars. Regal plaster
eagles were added by nineteenth-century
restorers, who turned a plain colonial
mansion into an imposing palace. The
fine interior is a blend of Rococo
plasterwork, polished wooden floors,
painted walls and ceilings. Inside is a
museum, the
Memorial dos Governadores
(same hours; free), with colonial pieces,
though it's less interesting than the
building itself. Also facing the square is
the
Câmara Municipal
, the seventeenth-
century city hall.
In the northeastern corner of the square
is the
Museu da Misericórdia
, dedicated to
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Salvador is built around the craggy,
50m-high bluff that dominates the
eastern side of the bay and splits the
central area into upper and lower
sections. The heart of the old city,
Cidade Alta
(upper city, or simply
Centro), is strung along its top - this is
the administrative, cultural and heavily
IMPORTANT DATES IN SALVADOR
Lavagem do Bonfim
(second Thurs in Jan).
The washing of the church steps by
baianas
(local Bahian women) in traditional dress is
followed by food, music and dancing.
Yemanjá
(Feb 2). A celebration of
candomblé
, a popular Afro-Brazilian religious
cult, with a procession and offerings to the
sound of Afro-Brazilian music.
Carnaval
(week preceding Lent). The
largest street party in the world takes place
in Salvador. There's an accepting atmos-
phere but it's worth bearing in mind that
all-black
blocos
(street bands and groups)
may be black culture groups who won't
appreciate being joined by non-black
Brazilians, let alone gringos; be sensitive or
ask before leaping in.
Festa de Santo Antônio
(June 13). The
main celebration of the patron saint of
matrimony is held at Largo de Santo Antônio.
Dia de São João
(June 24). The biggest
holiday in Bahia outside Carnaval celebrates
Saint John with
forró
(Northeastern Brazilian
folk dance), straw hats and traditional food.
Independência da Bahia
(July 2).
Celebrating the expulsion of the Portuguese
and the province's independence since the
year 1823.
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