Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
SÃO JOÃO DEL REI
Named in honour of Dom João V, king
of Portugal, SÃO JOÃO DEL REI was one
of the first settlements in the region,
dating back to the end of the seventeenth
century. Today the modern city has a
historic centre with imposing Baroque
churches surrounded by a less-than-
attractive surfeit of post-war apartment
blocks; it's one of the few gold towns
to have found a thriving place in the
modern world. Given that São João's
neighbour Tiradentes is the prettier town,
you may wish to stay there and visit here
for the day; nonetheless the town is
overall the more economical option. On
Fridays, weekends and public holidays
you can ride between the two towns on
the Maria Fumaça steam train .
of gold were extracted from here. Today it
is worth visiting for the roller-coaster
journey down into the tunnels alone,
in a rickety cart that wobbles along the
irregular tracks, taking you 120m below
ground. En route you pass caverns where
as many as three thousand slaves daily
sweated blood and tears at the rock face.
You continue on foot, with the option of
taking a refreshing dip in a spectacularly
clear lagoon. Any bus going between
Ouro Preto and Mariana will drop you
at the mine.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By bus Twice-hourly Transcotta buses from/to Ouro Preto
drop off and pick up at Praça Tancredo Neves in the heart
of town. The rodoviária ( T 31 3557 1215) is a couple of
kilometres west of the centre - local buses ply the route.
By train The Trem da Vale (see p.269) connects Mariana
with Ouro Preto. The station for the steam train from Ouro
Preto is right by the rodoviária .
Tourist information The excellent Terminal Turístico
(daily 8am-5pm; T 31 3557 1158) is on Praça Tancredo
Neves.
3
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Colonial buildings catch you unawares as
you wander through the town: ruas Santo
Antônio and Getulio Vargas are particularly
well preserved. Right on the town's wide
central artery, with a stream running
through the middle, the beautiful, classical
Teatro Municipal on Rua Hemilio Alves
(Mon-Fri 8-11am and 1-5pm; R$10) is
worth seeking out - or catch one of the
regular performances or concerts here; the
tourist office has details of current shows.
A couple of buildings away is the Brazilian
Expeditionary Force Museum (Museu FEB;
daily 8am-4pm; R$1), which tells the
story of the country's involvement in
World War II, including combat garbs,
radios, photographs, weapons, banknotes
and fascinating news clippings from the
period. The Railway Museum , at the station
four blocks east (Tues-Sun 9-11am &
1-5pm; R$1, free with a train ticket), has
interesting facts on the origins of the Maria
Fumaça, and also houses the first engine to
run on the track here.
On Rua Getulio Vargas, visit the
stunning 1721 Baroque Catedral de Nossa
Senhora de Pilar (daily 8am-8pm, closed at
lunchtime; free), which has extensive gold
gilding over the altar and attractive tiling.
Close by, the Museu Regional on Largo
Tamandaré (Tues-Fri noon-5.30pm;
Sat & Sun 8am-1pm; R$1) has a rich
collection of historical and artistic objects
ACCOMMODATION
Central Rua Frei Durão 8 T 31 3557 1630. Set within a
beautiful colonial building and certainly central, this very
basic sixty-room hotel has a slightly st range, soulless feel,
though it's reliable enough and cheap. R$75
Faisca Rua Antônio Olinto 48 T 31 3557 1206, W hotel
faisca.com.br. 35 smart, spotless rooms in the centre of
town; excellent value with breakfast and wi-fi included.
R$105
Mariana Hostel Rua Mestre Vicente 41 T 31 3557 1435,
W marianahostel.com.br. HI hostel 5min walk from the
centre, with sparkling rooms and bathroo ms, a co mmunal
area, breakfast and wi-fi included. Dorms R$38 , doubles
R$90
EATING
Cozinha Real Rua Antônio Olinto 34. Next door to the
Hotel Faisca , this place offers a good range of mineira
food (buffet lunch R$21), with friendly staff and live music
Fri & Sat nights. Closed Sun.
Ì Pizzaria Dom Silvério Praça Gomes Freire 242.
Top-notch wood-fired pizza in atmospheric surroundings
(R$32 for two), while a decent-sized prato feito mineira
is served at lunchtime (R$8). Open daily; evenings from
6.30pm.
Rancho Praça Gomes Freire 108. Excellent local cuisine
kept warm on a wooden stove. Lunchtime buffet (R$18),
soups (R$6) and petiscos (from R$10) at night. Closed Mon.
 
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