Brazil - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 233

CARNAVAL
Carnaval is celebrated in all of Brazil's cities, but Rio's is the biggest and most famous of all.
From the Friday before Ash Wednesday to the following Thursday, the city shuts up shop and
throws itself into the world's most famous manifestation of unbridled hedonism. Rio's carnival
ranks as the most important celebration on the Brazilian calendar, easily outstripping either
Christmas or Easter. In a poverty-stricken city, it represents a moment of release, when cariocas
unite to express their aspirations in music and song.
THE ACTION
Rio's street celebrations (known as blocos and bandas) happen all over town from the beaches
to the distant suburbs, and you should keep your ears open for the biggest and best parties
( W todorio.com has listings), day or night. The processions feature loudspeaker-laden floats
blasting out frenetic samba, and thousands of hyped-up revellers. Avenida Rio Branco
(Metrô Carioca) is the most traditional spot, but Santa Teresa, Laranjeiras, and of course all the
beach districts have loads going on. Many neighbourhoods also have their own samba school ,
competing in three leagues, each allowing promotion and relegation. It's a year-round
occupation, with schools mobilizing thousands of supporters, choosing a theme, writing the
music and learning the dances choreographed by the carnavelesco - the school's director. By
December, rehearsals have begun and the sambas are released to record stores. From September
to February a visit to a samba school is a must (see p.253), while all year round you can check out
the Cidade do Samba (Rua Rivadávia Correa, Gamboa, Centro W cidadedosambarj.globo.com),
a huge complex where carnival floats are constructed and touristic samba spectacles take place.
The main procession of Grupo Especial schools - known as the Desfile - takes place on the
Sunday and Monday nights in the purpose-built Sambódromo at Rua Marques de Sapucaí
(Metrô Praza Onze/Central do Brasil), a concrete structure 1.7km long that can accommodate
ninety thousand spectators. Some schools may have thirty thousand participants; they compete
for points awarded by judges according to the presentation of their song, story, dress, dance and
rhythm. Each school must parade for between 85 and 95 minutes, with the bateria , or percussion
section, sustaining the cadence that drives the school's song and dance. The carros alegóricos
(decorated floats) carry prominent figures, and the porta-bandeira (“flag bearer”) carries the
school's symbol. The bulk of the procession behind is formed by the alas - each with hundreds of
costumed individuals linked to a part of the school's theme.
The parade at the Sambódromo starts at 7.30pm, with eight schools (see also p.253)
parading on each of the two nights, and it goes on till 8am the following day. Arquibancada
(high stand) 9 is usually reserved for foreign visitors (from R$600 per night) while stand 3 is the
best value for a reasonable view (from R$280). Cheaper stands 4, 6 and 13 all have restricted
views (from R$120). Tickets , available from Riotur (see p.249), Banco do Brasil and numerous
agents and hotels around town, need to be booked well in advance.
Finally, carnival balls ( bailes de Carnaval ) and other live shows are a big feature of festivities
before and during the main event. Check out Lapa's Fundição Progresso ( W fundicaoprogresso
.com.br) for appearances by top samba schools in the run-up, and Leblon's Scala ( W scalario
.com.br) for no-holds-barred affairs each night.

3

to the Corcovado and Sugarloaf mountains
will also keep you occupied. Although
somewhat run-down, parts of the Zona
Norte (north and west of Centro) are being
renovated in advance of the Olympics:
fans of the “beautiful game” should make
the pilgrimage to the Maracanã football
stadium , while for the more culturally
minded there's the Museu Nacional .

and political life, taking its name from the
day in 1889 when Marechal Deodoro de
Fonseca, the first president, proclaimed the
Republic of Brazil. On the south side of
the square is the striking Paço Imperial
(Tues-Sun noon-6pm; free), which now
serves as an exhibition space. It was here in
1808 that the Portuguese monarch, Dom
João VI, established his court in Brazil,
and the building continued to be used for
royal receptions and special occasions: on
May 13, 1888, Princess Isabel proclaimed
the end of slavery here. Just south is bold,

Praça XV de Novembro
“ Praça Quinze ” (10min walk from Metrô
Carioca) was once the hub of Rio's social