Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
By train The train station is a short walk southeast of
the city centre on Av Galvarro (note that the ticket o ce
is closed all day Sat). Only first-class tickets are sold in
advance; the rest can be bought the day before travel at
the earliest - you'll need to show your passport.
Destinations Villazón (3.30pm Tues & Fri with Expreso del
Sur, 16hr; 7pm Wed & Sun with Wara Wara del Sur via
Uyuni, 7hr, and Tupiza, 13hr).
Bar Huari Junín, at Galvarro. Near the cathedral, this bar
has an old-fashioned vibe (as do many of the customers),
but it's a nice laidback option for a quiet beer (B$12-15).
Bravo's Pizza Bolívar, at Potosí. Serves up decent pizza -
including one topped with dried llama meat - in a cheer-
ful second-floor restaurant overlooking the plaza. Wi-fi
available. Pizzas big enough for two from B$49.
El Fogón Brasil, opposite bus station. This basic place
specializes in the local delicacy charquekan - llama meat
that is first dried then fried in plentiful oil, and served with
mote (dried corn), potatoes and white cheese. Mains
B$25-45.
Nayjama Pagador, at Aldana. The best restaurant in
town, serving huge portions of delicious local food, with
specialities including sublime roast lamb and criadillas
(bull testicles). Mains from B$40.
2
INFORMAT ION
Tourist information The o ce (Mon-Fri 8am-noon &
2.30-6.30pm; T 02 5250144) is on the south side of Plaza
10 de Febrero, though it is rarely open outside of Carnaval.
There is also a kiosk at the bus terminal where you might
get a map.
ACCOMMODAT ION
There's a fairly good range of places to stay in Oruro -
though a lack of good budget choice. During Carnaval
prices go up by as much as five times and most places will
only rent rooms for the entire weekend.
Alojamiento Copacabana Av Galvarro 6352 T 02
5254184. A handy option with a secure feel very close to
the trai n stati on; rooms are clean though some are tiny.
Doubles B$80
Hotel Bernal Av Brasil 701 T 02 5279468. Near the bus
station, this place has seen far better days, but overall it's
a steal for the price. Rooms at the front are noisy. Doubles
B$160
Gran Hotel Bolivia C Rodriguez 131, between 6 de
Agosto and Velasco Galvarro T 02 5241047. Two blocks
from the bus station, it's not grand but it is certainly
colourful, with basic rooms set around a fairl y chee ry
central courtyard. Breakfast is available. Doubles B$100
Residencial Boston Pagador 1159 T 02 5274708. The
bright decor of the public areas makes up for slightly dingy
rooms, though they're good value and come with or
without private bath. Doubles B$100
Hotel Samay Wasi Av Brasil 232 T 02 5276737, E samay
wasioruro@hotmail.com. This HI-a liated modern block
near the bus station is a little over budget, but with spick-
and-span rooms, good showers and a substantial buffet
breakfas it includ ed, it's worth it if you need pampering.
Doubles B$240
Residencial San Salvador Av Galvarro 6325 T 02
5276771. Near the train station, the rooms come with
private bath and cable TV but can get stiflingly hot.
Doubles B$90
POTOSÍ
Set on a desolate, windswept plain amid
barren mountains at almost 4100m above
sea level, POTOSÍ is the highest city in the
world, and at once the most fascinating
and tragic place in Bolivia. Given its
remote and inhospitable location, it's
difficult to see at first glance why it was
ever built here at all. The answer lies in
Cerro Rico (“Rich Mountain”), the conical
peak that rises imperiously above the city
to the south and that was, quite simply,
the richest source of silver the world had
ever seen.
he silver rush of Cerro Rico was
triggered in 1545 by a llama herder
who was caught out after dark on the
mountain's slopes. He started a fire to
keep warm, and was amazed to see
a trickle of molten silver run out from
the blaze. News of this discovery soon
reached the Spaniards, the rush was
soon under way, and its population
mushroomed to more than 100,000 over
the next twenty years, making it easily the
largest metropolis in the Americas.
By the beginning of the seventeenth
century, Potosí was home to more than
160,000 people and boasted dozens of
magnificent churches, as well as theatres,
gambling houses, brothels and dance
halls. For the indigenous workers and
African slaves who produced this wealth,
however, the working conditions were
appalling. Estimates of the total number
who died over three centuries of colonial
EATING AND DRINKING
There are plenty of cheap roast-chicken restaurants and
snack bars on Avenida 6 de Octubre, where late on Friday
and Saturday night stalls serve the local speciality rostro
asado , or roasted sheep's head.
 
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