Bolivia - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 178

ACCOMMODAT ION AND EATING
It's possible to camp on the island, but ask permission and
bring your own food and drinking water; another alter-
native is the b asic ho stal next to the ruins, which can put
you up. Dorms B$25

Transportes Unificada, on the Plaza Enrique Peñaranda.
The road is mainly paved but very steep in places, and can
be hair-raising. If you're coming from Copacabana, get off
at Huarina and wait for a connecting bus to Sorata - you
might need to wait a while for one that isn't full. In the
past there have been high-season direct services between
Copacabana and Sorata.
Destinations La Paz (every 30min until 5pm; 4hr).

THE CORDILLERA REAL
Stretching for about 160km along the
northeastern edge of the Altiplano, the
Cordillera Real - the “Royal Range” - is
the loftiest and most dramatic section of
the Cordillera Oriental in Bolivia, with six
peaks over 6000m high and many more
over 5000m forming a jagged wall of
soaring, ice-bound peaks separating the
Altiplano from the tropical lowlands of
the Amazon Basin. Easily accessible from
La Paz, the mountains are perfect for
climbing and trekking (see box, p.181)
- indeed, walking here is the only way
to really appreciate the overwhelming
splendour of the Andean landscape.
Populated by isolated Aymara communities
that cultivate the lower slopes and valleys
and raise llamas and alpacas on the high
pastures, the cordillera is a largely pristine
natural environment. Here, the mighty
Andean condor is still a common sight,
pumas, though rarely seen, still prowl
the upper reaches, and the elusive
Andean spectacled bear roams the high
cloudforest that fringes the mountains'
upper eastern slopes.

2

INFORMAT ION
Money There's no ATM but Prodem give cash advances for
a 5 percent commission fee.
Tourist information For information and advice on
trekking in the surrounding mountains, try the Sorata
Guides and Porters Association, whose o ce lies opposite
the Residencial Sorata , just off the plaza on Calle Sucre
( T 73272763). They can arrange guides for all the main
trekking routes around Sorata for around B$200/day;
they also organize mule hire and have a limited amount
of camping equipment available for rent. La Paz-based
Andean Epics offer some fantastic all-action expeditions
leaving from Sorata (see p.162).

ACCOMMODAT ION
There's a good choice of inexpensive places to stay in
Sorata, as well as a couple of mid-range options with
creature comforts.
Altai Oasis T 02 2133895, T 71519856, W altaioasis
.com. Follow the path past the Hostal El Mirador , take the
first right down the hill, then the next right-hand turning
to drop steeply down towards the hostel. Alternatively,
take a taxi for about B$20. Set by the river, this is an
exquisite place to stay, with lush, sprawling grounds,
swingi ng ha mmock s and a peacef ul feel. Camping per
person B$30 , dorms B$84 , doubles B$250
Hostal Jordán III C Murillo, at Bolívar T 07 3288144,
W soratajordan.com. With terraces overlooking the square,
this is an excellent place to watch the world go by. Facilities
include a kitchen and a comfy D VD roo m. Continental
breakfast available (B$10). Doubles B$90
Hostal El Mirador Muñecas 400 T 02 2898503. This
good-value, popular option is a 5min walk from the plaza.
Rooms are basic but there's a lovely terrace with beaut iful
views, hot showers and a laidback feel. Doubles B$120
Hostal Panchita On the plaza, next to the church
T 02 2134242. A welcoming, simple place with a sunny
courtyard and clean rooms (though th e “hot” shower
doesn't quite live up to its name). Doubles B$140
Las Piedras C 2 near the football field T 71916341,
E [e-mail]. A 10-15min walk out of
town, Las Piedras is a serene place with characterful rooms,
balconies with deckchairs and an inviting communal area
with games and plenty of cushions. Breakfast with home-
made yoghurt and wholemeal bread is available for B$35,

SORATA
Set at an altitude of 2695m, SORATA is
a placid and enchanting little town, and
is the most popular base for trekking and
climbing in the Cordillera Real. Hemmed
in on all sides by steep mountain slopes,
often shrouded in clouds and with a
significantly warmer climate than La Paz,
it was compared by Spanish explorers to
the Garden of Eden. There's not a lot to
do in Sorata itself except hang out and
relax either side of some hard trekking or
climbing, or less strenuous walks in the
surrounding countryside.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus Buses from La Paz's cemetery district pull up every
hour from 7am until 10pm in front of the bus company,