Bolivia - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget

Travel Reference

In-Depth Information

Sabor Cubano C Sagárnaga 357, W saborcubanobolivia

.com; map p.167. Excellent-value Cuban cuisine including

almuerzos (B$25) in a cave of a bar-restaurant plastered in

photos and gra ti. There's often live music on Thurs & Fri

evenings. Daily 12.30pm- 12.30am.

Star of India C Cochabamba 170; map p.167. A self-

proclaimed “British Indian curry house” (albeit one that

serves llama tikka masala) with a low-lit interior and

tiled floors. They promise their vindaloo is “silly hot”. Most

curries B$49, naans B$8, almuerzo B$35. Mon-Sat 9am-

11pm, Sun 4-11pm.

Sol y Luna Cochabamba, at Murillo W solyluna-lapaz.com;

map p.167. Snug, candelit bar-café for a laidback evening.

There are pool tables, a book exchange, an excellent range

of beers, and live music on Mon and Thurs. The food, much

of it Dutch, is so-so. Daily 9am-1am.

Thelonious Jazz Bar Av 20 de Octubre 2172; map p.171.

A fine little jazz bar, with an intimate basement atmos-

phere, live music Tues-Sat (not necessarily jazz) and an

incredibly convivial owner. B$25-50 cover charge. Closed

Sun and Mon.

Tra c Av Arce 2549; map p.171. Long-established crowd-

puller with international DJs - mostly from neighbouring

countries - and live music. Fridays are particularly good.

Mon-Sat 7pm-4am.

TTKOs C Mexico 1555; map p.167. One of the better bars

nearer the centre, this basement is an unpretentious

hangout for foreigners and locals alike. Often hosts live

music, from reggae (Tues) to rock. Cover B$10. Tues-Sat

9pm-3.30am.

2

DRINKING, NIGHTLIFE AND

ENTERTAINMENT

Many travellers spend the majority of their partying time

in the hostel bars, not moving on until Loki , Wild Rover and

- to a lesser extent - Adventure Brew kick out in the small

hours. The Sopocachi neighbourhood - a 30min walk or

10min cab ride - is a good option, with venues running

the gamut from live jazz to raucous travellers' hangouts.

And although La Paz's club scene isn't what it was, you can

still find a busy dancefloor heaving to just about any kind

of music. For more traditional entertainment, head to one

of the folk music venues known as peñas , where - with

varying degrees of authenticity - you can witness age-old

Andean music and dance.

CINEMAS AND PEÑAS

Cinemateca Boliviana R. Gutiérrez, W cinemateca

boliviana.org. An excellent arthouse cinema with a café

that gives good views north towards Miraflores. Usually

showing one or two blockbusters, too.

Cine Municipal 6 de Agosto Av 6 de Agosto 2284 T 02

2442629. Wonderful Art Deco cinema in Sopocachi that

bypasses Hollywood for a more engaging programme of

Latin American and European film.

Cine Teatro Monje Campero Av 16 de Julio, at C Bueno

T 02 2333332. A local landmark, with afternoon and

evening showings of the latest releases.

Multicine Av Arce 2631 T 02 2112463, W 2.multicine.com

.bo. A modern, comfortable multiscreen place in Sopocachi,

within walking distance of central La Paz. All manner of fast-

food joints here, too.

Peña Marka Tambo Jaén 710 T 02 2280041. Hosts the

most authentic traditional music and dance show in La

Paz from an ideal setting in an old colonial mansion. It also

has one of the best-value cover charges in town at B$35.

The food, however, is mediocre. Shows start at 10pm.

BARS AND NIGHTCLUBS

Diesel Av 20 de Octubre, at Rosendo Gutiérrez; map p.171.

Industrial-chic bar with an extraordinary post-apocalyptic

design, complete with aircraft engines hanging from the

ceiling. Mon-Sat from 7pm until the early hours.

Etno Jaén 722; map p.167. Arty bar/café tucked away in La

Paz's most charming street, with dimly lit wooden tables,

good coffee and a relaxed vibe. Serves a B$16 almuerzo and

pizzas from B$14. Mojito B$20. Mon-Sat 11am until late

(around 3am).

Malegria Pasaje Medinacelli 2282; map p.171. An Afro-

Bolivian band arrives triumphantly into the already buzzing

venue late on Thurs nights, which otherwise jumps to Latin

sounds, Western club jams, and reggae. Photocopied ID is a

must. Thurs-Sat 9pm-2.45am.

Mongo's Hermanos Manchego 2444; map p.171. Not

quite the gringo rendezvous it once was, but its cocktail of

televised sports, decent food, serious drinking, live music

and raucous dancing still pulls a crowd at weekends. Live

Cuban music on Tues; it hosts salsa classes too. Daily 6pm

until late

Oliver's Murillo 1014; map p.167. Gringo pub above Sol y

Luna (see p.167) that's ideal for those craving comfort food

(the pies and chips are genuinely excellent), televised

sports and bar-top dancing. Once the hostel bars kick out,

this is often first port of call. Open from 6am, people pop in

for been-up-all-night breakfasts.