Argentina - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget

Travel Reference

In-Depth Information

Hostel del Glaciar Pioneros Los Pioneros 255 T 02902

491243, W glaciar.com. There are pros and cons to this

sizeable HI hostel. The four-bed dorm rooms are cramped,

as is the kitchen, but some of the newer double rooms

have been tastefully furnished with private bathrooms,

and the on-sit e rest aurant d oes hea rty home-style

cooking. Dorms AR$83 , doubles AR$308

Hostel Ikeu Ken FM Pontoriero 171 T 02902 495175,

W patagoniaikeuken.com.ar. An intimate but lively hilltop

hostel with a balcony that enjoys the afternoon sun and

lake vistas. Dorms and bathrooms are pretty ordinary,

although the two adjacent fully equipped cabañas, with

kitche ns and private ba throoms , are highly sought after.

Dorms AR$80 , cabañas AR$300

serves up good pizzas (AR$45-75) from its wood-fired

oven, plus pasta dishes, make-your-own salads and huge

sandwiches. There are a couple of other branches around

town. Daily noon-midnight.

Mirábile Libertador 1329 T 02902 492230. This pasta-

maker is fronted by an economical (for El Calafate) restaurant.

Local families flock here for the wonderful trout or squash

ravioli and various types of lasagne and gnocchi. Mains

around AR$40-60, and there are often good low-cost

specials. Daily noon-3pm & 8pm-midnight.

Pura Vida Av Libertador 1876 T 0290 493356. The

owners provide traditional food with a modern touch in

this A-frame cabin. The menu has numerous vegetarian

options alongside appetizing dishes such as country

chicken pie and “Granny's” lentil stew. Mains around

AR$56-76. Daily 7.30-11.30pm. Closed Wed.

La Tablita Colonel Rosales 28 T 02902 491065. Although

the restaurant itself is somewhat lacking in character,

the beef and lamb here is some of the best in town. Prices

are high, but the huge portions can easily feed more than

one person. Mains AR$70-105. Daily noon-3.30pm &

7.30pm-midnight. Closed Wed.

Ì Viva la Pepa Emilio Amado 833 T 02902 491880,

W vivalapepacalafate.com. Cheerful café with 69 different

types of savoury and sweet crepes (AR$36-70), as well as

soups, sandwiches, fresh juices and coffee. There's a

whimsical air to the place: crudities are served in mini

watering cans and children's paintings cover the walls.

Daily noon-8pm. Closed Thurs.

1

GUESTHOUSES

Casa de Grillos Los Condores 1215 T 02902 491160,

W casadegrillos.com.ar. A peaceful B&B in a two-storey

family home with just a handful of comfortable rooms -

though they could do with a spruce up - and a self-cont ained

cabin in the garden. Doubles AR$360 , cabaña AR$420

Hospedaje Lautaro Espora 237 T 02902 492698,

W hospedajelautaro.com.ar. A super-friendly option where

you'll feel just like one of the family, Hospedaje Lautaro has

a mix of dorms and private rooms, a co mmunal lounge, a nd

free tea and coffee. Dorms AR$97.50 , doubles AR$220

Ì El Jardin de los Presentes Guido Bonarelli 72

T 02902 491518, W lospresentes.com.ar. You couldn't ask

for warmer hospitality or better value than this spotless,

family-run B&B. The large doubles have TVs, private

bathrooms and partial lake views, while the fully equipped

two-stor ey cabañ as sleep up to five. Doubles AR$370 ,

cabañas AR$445

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE

Casablanca Av Libertador 1202 T 02902 491402. Buzzing

café-bar that serves good coffee and fifteen types of beer

(from around AR$20-25), plus tasty lomitos (Argentine

steak sandwich). Classic film posters and signed hockey and

rugby shirts decorate the place. Daily noon-midnight.

Closed Wed.

Libro-Bar Borges y Alvarez Av Libertador 1015

T 02902 491464. This small café-bar is run by, and aimed

at, bibliophiles. There's an extensive range of Argentine

and South American books (mainly in Spanish) to flick

through while sampling a coffee, hot chocolate or trago

(alcoholic drink). Drinks from AR$12. Daily 11am/noon-

2/3am. Closed Wed.

La Toldería Av Libertador 1177 T 02902 491443. Those

with energy to burn and the opposite sex on their mind

flock to this bar/club for live music and a let-it-all-hang-

out dancefloor that on weekends throbs until sunrise.

Tues-Sun summer noon-5/6am, winter 8pm-5/6am.

EATING

Restaurant prices are very high throughout El Calafate, and

it is di cult to keep to a tight budget unless you self-cater

for at least some of your time here. Outside of the high

season, most places have reduced opening hours.

Don Pichón Puerto Deseado 242 T 02902 492577.

Top-notch parilla on a hill, a 10min walk northeast of the

centre (call ahead for a free pick-up), whose wraparound

windows offer panoramic views of the city and the lake.

Steaks are the big draw, but if you're feeling indulgent, go

for the fondue. Mains AR$45-90. Tues-Sun noon-3pm &

7pm-midnight.

Kau Kaleshan Gob. Gregores 1256 T 02902 491188.

This charming vegetarian restaurant/ casa de té has an

inventive menu featuring wraps, pizzas, stir-fries and

curries (all AR$35-60). There is also a range of teas,

coffees and home-made cakes, ideal for a merienda (after-

noon snack). Tues-Sun 4pm-midnight.

La Lechuza Av Libertador 1301 T 02902 491610,

W lalechuzapizzas.com.ar. This deservedly popular place