Argentina - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 132

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus The bus terminal is in the southeastern end of
town on Güemes, at Perito Moreno. Several companies
have services to El Calafate (2-10 daily; 3hr). There are also
buses to and from El Calafate's airport (1-3 daily; 3hr),
Puerto Natales in Chile (3 weekly; 5hr), and, between
November and April, Perito Moreno (1-2 daily; 13hr) and
Bariloche (1-2 daily; around 27hr). Buy tickets at least
a day in advance for all services.

1

62 ( T 02962 493275, W walkpatagonia.com), is another
excellent outfit. Most agencies shut down in the winter.

ACCOMMODAT ION
Reserve a bed in advance if you are coming in January or
February. A number of hostels cater to the young hiking
crowd: most offer kitchen facilities, dorms and costly
double rooms - couples will find better value at guest-
houses. Few places open year-round. Rates for all include
breakfast, unless stated otherwise.

INFORMAT ION AND TOURS
Two useful websites are W lacachania.com.ar and
W elchalten.com.
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares o ce The excellent
park o ce is in a wooden house at the entrance to town
(daily Dec-Feb 8am-6pm, March-Nov 9am-5pm; T 02962
493004), with free maps, wildlife exhibits, video screenings
and advice on leave-no-trace camping. All buses that arrive
in El Chaltén stop here for an English- or Spanish-language
introduction to the rules of the park. Climbers and those using
the Laguna Torre campsite must register here first.
Tourist information There's a small tourist o ce (Dec-
Feb daily 8am-8pm, March-Nov Mon-Fri 9am-2pm &
5-7pm, Sat & Sun 10.30am-noon & 5-7pm T 0292
493370) in the bus station.
Tour operators Fitz Roy Expediciones, San Martín 56
( T 02962 493178, W fitzroyexpediciones.com.ar), organizes
trekking on Glaciar Torre, teaches ice climbing and leads
expeditions on the continental ice cap. In the same o ce
is Patagonia Aventura ( T 02962 493110, W patagonia
-aventura.com), which offers daily transfers to Lago Viedma
(18km south), boat excursions across the lake to the snout
of Glaciar Viedma, and ice-trekking (from AR$440) on the
glacier itself. They also run boat trips across Lago del Desierto
(37km north), from where there are spectacular views of Fitz
Roy. The Anglo-Argentine-run Walk Patagonia, Antonio Rojo

HOSTELS AND CAMPSITES
Albergue Aylen-Aike Trevisan 125 T 02962 493317,
W elchalten.com/aylenaike. A bright riverside hostel with
four-, six- and eight-bed dorms, superb views from the
kitchen, and a relaxed li living ro om with a TV and stereo.
Closed April-Oct. Dorms AR$90
Ì Albergue Patagonia San Martín 493 T 02962
493019, W patagoniahostel.com.ar. This friendly HI hostel,
set in a wooden house, has attentive staff, inviting communal
spaces, mountain bikes for rent, and a well-equipped kitchen.
Downsides are lockers located outside the simple four-person
dorms and cramped communal bathrooms. There are simple
doubles in the main buildi ng and smarter options in ext door.
Closed April-Sept. Dorms AR$70 , doubles AR$220
La Bonanza RP23 T 02962 493366, W campingbonanza
.com.ar. This charming campsite, around 8km north of
town, is situated next to the Río de las Vueltas, where trees
offer some shelter from the wind. The re are h ot showers
and cooking facilities. Camping/person AR$50
Condor de los Andes Av Río de las Vueltas, at Halvorsen
T 02962 493101, W condordelosandes.com. A well-run
hostel with lots of light in the front room, clean four- and
six-bed dorms, a basic kitchen, and staff who organize
excursi ons and l unch bo xes. Closed April to Sept. Dorms
AR$90 , doubles AR$380

HIKE, BIKE AND SAIL INTO CHILE
From El Chaltén, it's possible to cross to Villa O'Higgins (see p.461) in Chile ( W villaohiggins
.com) by undertaking an adventurous two-day trip by boat and foot (or bike) in the summer.
Start by catching a bus from El Chaltén and heading 37km north to the southern end of Lago
del Desierto. The lake's northern shore can be reached either by scenic boat ride or by
hiking (5hr) along its eastern shore to a free campsite. After overnighting at the campsite,
get up early the next morning, grab an exit stamp from the Argentine police and hike or cycle
(be prepared to carry your bike part of the way along a muddy single-track forest trail) over the
pass into Chile (approx 16km; allow for a full day and bring plenty of supplies). Horses can be
hired from Lago del Desierto to help with the luggage burden.
The trail ends at Lago O´Higgins , where you go through the Chilean passport-stamping
ritual. It's possible to camp and buy meals here at the lakeside hamlet and estancia of
Candelario Mancilla. A boat crosses the lake to the hamlet of Villa O´Higgins (summer only;
5hr), the final settlement on Chile's stunning 1000km-plus Carretera Austral. Ask at El Chaltén's
tourist o ce for boat schedules and general information on this increasingly popular route.
Note the border crossing is only open November to March.