Argentina - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 121

bright little kitchen. The dorm beds are just what the
chiropractor ordered and there's one tiny double room.
Internet, wi-fi and breakfast included. Book ahead as
there are only four rooms in total. Dorms AR$90 , doubles
AR$220
Hostel Sol Azul Rivadavia 2869 T 02945 455 193,
W hostelsolazul.com.ar. The cosiest hostel in town boasts
a wood-burning stove, heated floors and an all-stone bar.
The do rms are small with bunk beds for four and lockers.
Dorms AR$80

name, the flora is wildly varied:
Valdivian temperate rainforest thrives
in its luxuriant western zone near the
Chilean border, which is deluged by
around 3000mm of annual rainfall.
Elsewhere, incense cedar, bamboo-like
caña colihue , arrayán , coihue , lenga and
southern beech thrive.

1

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Most visitors gravitate towards the
park's user-friendly and photogenic
northeast sector where there is a
network of four dazzling lakes -
Rivadavia , Verde , Menéndez and
Futalaufquen . The emerald-hued Lago
Verde is often the first port of call for
day-trekkers and campers. Spilling over
from Lago Verde is the Río Arrayanes ,
crossed by a suspension bridge that
marks the start of an easy hour-long
interpretive loop walk.
Some hikes, including the trek to the
summit of Cerro Alto El Dedal (1916m),
require registration with the park ranger's
office (see below) first. The most popular
day excursion is the boat trip run by
Brazo Sur (Rivadavia 891, Esquel T 02945
456359, W brazosur.com.ar), which leaves
from either Puerto Limonao (3km north
of the ranger's office, 9.30am departure,
AR$270) or Puerto Chucao (halfway
around the Lago Verde/Río Arrayanes
loop trail, 11.30am departure, AR$230).
The boats cross Lago Menéndez to visit
El Abuelo (The Grandfather), a 57m-high
alerce estimated to be more than 2600
years old.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMAT ION
By car One main dusty, bumpy road (the RP71) runs
through Los Alerces and is usually accessible year-round,
although it is occasionally blocked by snow in winter. There
is no public transport outside of peak season, so a vehicle is
recommended; otherwise, hikers need to walk along the
road between trails, enduring clouds of body-coating dust
from passing cars and trucks.
By bus Peak season is Jan-Feb, when Transportes Esquel
( T 02945 453 529, W transportesesquel.com.ar) runs a
daily bus service to the park; it takes three bumpy hours
to reach Lago Verde.
Tourist information The ranger's o ce (daily 8am-9pm;
T 02945 471 020) is at Villa Futalaufquen, a village on
Lago Futalaufquen, 12km past the park entrance point,

EATING AND DRINKING
La Barra Sarmiento 638 T 02945 454 321, W parrilla
labarra.com.ar. This parrilla serves big juicy slabs of
tenderloin accompanied with home-made mayonnaise
on lacy tablecloths. Daily lunch & dinner.
Empanadería Molinari Molinari 633 T 02945 454
687. The delightful owner serves super cheap take-
away empanadas with beef, vegetable, corn or chicken
fillings.
Fitzroya Pizza Rivadavia 1048 T 02945 450 512. Cheesy,
inexpensive pizzas loaded with creative toppings such
as broccoli, salmon and trout are delivered piping hot.
Daily noon-3pm & 7.30pm-midnight.
Moe Bar Rivadavia 873. Cocktails and classic rock are the
orders of the night at this dark and rowdy drinking hole
with half a yellow car protruding from its entrance. Tend
to your hunger pangs with one of their tasty pizzas or
picadas . Daily until late.

PARQUE NACIONAL LOS ALERCES
PARQUE NACIONAL LOS ALERCES ,
40km west of Esquel, encompasses
2630 square kilometres of gorgeous,
glacier-carved Andean landscape
(entrance fee AR$50). Although far less
visited than Parque Nacional Nahuel
Huapi to the north, its network of
richly coloured lakes and pristine rivers
makes it a prime destination for anglers,
while countless hiking trails through
verdant forests attract summer walkers
and campers. It's easily navigable on
a day-trip from Esquel via the very
popular lake tour (see below).
he alerce (or Patagonian cypress) that
grows here is one of the oldest living
species on the planet, with some
examples surviving as long as 3000
years. In size, they're almost comparable
to the grand sequoias of California,
growing to 70m tall and 4m wide.
hough the alerce gives the park its