Argentina - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget

Travel Reference

In-Depth Information

1

La Selva Negra Av Bustillo 3km west of town T 02944

441 013. The closest campsite to town is surrounded

by forest. Good f facilities include a wi-fi area and bar/café.

Camping/person AR$30

Tango Inn Downtown Salta 514 T 02944 400 004,

W tangoinn.com. A four-storey mega-hostel with stupen-

dous lake views. A good place to come to make friends,

as it has a Jacuzzi plus table football and pool tables.

Big bre akfasts and loun ge with wide-screen TV. Dorms

AR$90 , doubles AR$320

sour tofu, or Asian curries. Tonnes of vegetarian and vegan

options, with a good-value set lunch (AR$50). Mon-Thurs

lunch only, Fri & Sat lunch & dinner.

Dias de Zapata Morales 362 T 02944 423 128. This

colourful Mexican-owned restaurant serves mains like

quesadillas and tacos, as delicious as they are generous.

Arrive before 9pm for cheap cocktails.

La Fonda del Tío Mitre 1330 T 02944 435 011. Packed

to the fluorescent-lit rafters with ravenous locals,

this unpretentious, economical diner does outstanding

versions of Argentine staples (beef, milanesas and pastas).

Ì Helados Jauja Moreno 18. In a country known for

its ice cream, Jauja is recognized as the best. Try a scoop

of white chocolate, dulce de leche with chocolate chips,

or blackcurrant. Daily until late.

La Marmite Mitre 329 T 02944 423 685. This old-

fashioned joint hung with antlers is a bit of a wallet-

sapper; the traditional afternoon tea or cheese fondue will

set you back around AR$150 for two. Closed Sun lunch.

HOTELS

Nogare Elflein 62 T 02944 422 438. A welcoming, central

budget hotel, with five pleasant blue-and-white rooms

with cable TV. Internet is included , as is a hearty breakfast.

Discounts in low season. AR$260

Sur Beschtedt T 02944 422 677. This two-star hotel may

not be the most beautiful, but it does offer clean hotel

rooms with all of the amenit ies inclu ding wi-fi. They can

also help arrange excursions. AR$300

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE

Exhaustion after a day on the slopes/rapids/trails leaves

many travellers tucked in bed by 10pm, but those with

more energy can enjoy any number of bars and after-

midnight action in similar lakeside discos such as Cerebro

(Av Juan Manuel de Rosas 406) and Roket (Av Juan Manuel

de Rosas 424). Come the winter, most are filled with

young Brazilian ski bunnies.

Antares Brewery Elflein 47. Sip the Antares microbrew

at a comfortable pub right at the source. Decent pub

snacks and a range of artisanal beers (approx AR$25 a

pint). Happy hour 7-8.30pm. Daily 7pm to late.

South Bar Juramento 30. Locals and tourists meet at this

no-frills Irish bar to share cheap pints and mixed drinks.

Stay out late until the tables are pushed aside and the

dancing commences. Daily from 8pm.

EATING

Between its decadent chocolate shops and first-rate

restaurants, expect to leave Bariloche carrying a little extra

weight. Most restaurants are open daily about noon-3pm

and 7.30pm-midnight.

El Boliche de Alberto Elflein 347 ( T 02944 434 568)

and Bustillo 8800 ( T 02944 462 285); W elbolichede

alberto.com. Make a glutton of yourself at this popular

local parrilla that serves massive portions; be prepared

to wait for a table (they don't take reservations). An

outrageously large bife de chorizo is AR$60.

Covita Vicealmirante O'Connor 511 T 02944 421 708.

This tiny restaurant does gourmet but affordable takes

on dishes like aubergine quiche with borscht, sweet and

Ì TREAT YOURSELF

Butterfly Hua Huan 7831, Playa Bonita

T 02944 461 441, W butterflypatagonia

.com.ar. “An Irish chef, Argentine hostess

and German sommelier walked into a

restaurant” may sound like the beginning of

a joke but it is the actual story behind this

six-table restaurant with a view of the lake.

Butterfly has caused quite a stir by serving

Michelin-worthy meals at a reasonable

price. Call ahead to reserve, and let them

know of any dislikes and they will craft a

meal for you with courses such as Chilean

sea-bass carpaccio or pea ravioli with fried

bacon and parsley. From AR$350 for seven

courses, more with wine pairings. Seatings

at 7.45pm and 9.30pm, closed Wednesdays.

SHOPPING

Books Cultura Librería, Elflein 74, stocks some English-

language books and travel guides.

Chocolate C Mitre has numerous chocolate shops

(some the size of supermarkets) selling row upon row of

eye-wateringly expensive gourmet chocolate. The local

favourite is Mamuschka, at C Mitre 216, though Abuela

Goye, at C Mitre 258, is cosier and has shorter queues.

Markets The bustling Fería Municipal (known colloquially

as Mercado de Artesanias) is held daily behind the Centro

Cívico on Urquiza between Mitre and Moreno, and sells

locally made crafts.