Argentina - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 113

where some of the trees are more than
650 years old. The myrtle's corkscrew-like
trunks, terracotta-coloured bark and
white flowers are a stunning contrast to
blue sky or the shimmering lake.
To get to Bosque de los Arrayanes , you
can either hike, bike or take a boat. To
hike, follow the undulating trail (12km
one-way) from the park entrance to the
end of the peninsula; allow for a five- to
six-hour round trip. Cycling is allowed on
the trail; bikes can be rented at half a dozen
places in Villa La Angostura. Leave early to
get to the bosque before the catamarans full
of tourists arrive at about 11.30am.

1

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
Tinto Bistro Nahuel Huapi 31 T 02944
494924, W tintobistro.com/angostura.
Serving food fit for royalty (literally - the
owner's sister is Queen Máxima of
Holland), the bold fusion menu here is
well versed in the ways of the world
- think Thai, Mediterranean and Peruvian
influences. Pasta is teamed with tomato,
ricotta and smoked wild boar (AR$85),
while their ceviche features local trout as
well as prawns (AR$73). A wine list of
more than 150 vintages seals the deal.
Mon-Sat.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMAT ION
By bus The bus station is at Av Siete Lagos 35, just uphill
from the main avenue ( T 02944 494 961).
Destinations Bariloche (hourly; 1hr); San Martín de los
Andes (4 daily; 2hr 30min).
Tourist information Pick up a map or organize accommo-
dation at the tourist o ce (daily 8am-10pm; T 02944 494
124, W villalaangostura.gov.ar), at Av Siete Lagos 90, across
the road from the bus terminal.

street, this lovely hostel has spacious dorms as well as
doubles and triples set in a large wooden-beamed house
with plenty of smaller communal nooks to have a chat.
Extras include wi-fi, breakfast, bike rental, back-yard ham-
mocks, herb garden an d well- equipped kitchen with a
recycling system. Dorms AR$90 , doubles AR$125
Verenas Haus Los Taiques 268 T 02944 494 467,
W verenashaus.com.ar. The town's most affordable B&B-
style option offers six impeccable if dark private rooms
(ask for discounts in low season). Board games, wi-fi an d
a good breakfast are on offer in the living room. AR$420

GETTING AROUND
By boat Catamarans depart for Bosque de los Arrayanes
from the two jetties that are right across from each other
in La Villa - Bahía Mansa and Bahía Brava. Futaleufú
( T 02944 494 405) runs three daily boat trips from Mansa
(AR$210), and Patagonia Argentina ( T 02944 494 463)
three daily trips from Brava (AR$190). It's also possible to
visit the bosque on a boat trip from Bariloche, usually
stopping off at Isla Victoria on the way (AR$280; W turisur
.com.ar).

EATING
Most restaurants in town are of the upmarket variety,
although many of the tea houses serve inexpensive
sandwiches. That said, it's not impossible to eat full meals
on the cheap. All are open daily, approximately noon-4pm
and 8pm-midnight.
La Caballeriza Av Los Arrayanes 44 T 02944 494 248. A
good-value restaurant that locals will direct you towards for
the best beef. Hard-to-find vegetable parrilla with pumpkin,
courgettes, peppers and more is big enough to share.
Gran Nevada Av Los Arrayanes 102. This bare-bones
eatery is always full because of the gigantic portions of
dirt-cheap food.
La Luna Encantada Belvedere 69 T 02944 495 436.
Skip the usual dinners; the draw here is the wood-fired
pizza. The locally smoked trout or salmon makes the
perfect topping. Closed Sun night and Mon.

ACCOMMODAT ION
Built solely to accommodate tourists, Villa La Angostura is
luxury central, with the most exclusive hotels hugging the
lakeshore. But there are some reasonable budget options.
Hostel La Angostura Barbagelata 157 T 02944 494
834, W hostellaangostura.com.ar. It's a short uphill walk
west of Plaza San Martín to this enormous green house
fronted by wind chimes. The comfortable dorms (AR$90)
are en suite and the front room is a huge chill-out space,
with pool table, TV lounge and kitchen. Br eakfast and
wi-fi are included and there are bikes for rent. AR$290
Camping Unquehué 0.5km west of the bus station on
Av Siete Lagos T 02944 494 103, W campingunquehue
.com.ar. This very lovely sit e is the closest campsit e to
downtown. Camping/person AR$52 plus/tent AR$20
Ì Italian Hostel Los Maquis 215 T 02944 494 376,
W italianhostel.com.ar. Two blocks south of the main

BARILOCHE
Set on the southeastern shores of
sparkling Lago Nahuel Huapi and framed
by magnificent snowcapped Andean
peaks, BARILOCHE has its breathtaking
setting to thank for its status as one of
Argentina's top holiday destinations.