Argentina - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 103

Tourist information The resort's o ce for booking
ski packages and accommodation is in Buenos Aires at
Bartolomé Mitre 401, 4th floor (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm; T 011
4819 6000, W laslenas.com).
Lift ticket o ce Mid-June to late Sept 7.30am-5pm
( T 0260 447 1100, W laslenas.com). Daily lift ticket prices
range seasonally from AR$199 to AR$299.

the volcanic wonderland of La Payunia
(208km south), and to Laguna de
Llancanelo (65km southeast), a high-
altitude lagoon speckled pink with
flamingos.

1

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Malargüe's flat, compact centre is easy
to get your head around: the wide main
drag is the RN40, known in town as
Avenida San Martín . Here you'll find the
tourist office, shops and the main square,
Plaza General San Martín . Just south of
the tourist office is the landscaped
greenery of Parque del Ayer (“Park of
Yesteryear”), filled with sculptures and
native trees. Opposite, you can take a free
guided tour at the Observatorio Pierre
Auger (Mon-Fri 5-6pm; T 0260 447
1562, W auger.org.ar), an astrophysics
centre that studies cosmic rays.

ACCOMMODAT ION
Las Leñas accommodation needs to be booked through the
resort's central Buenos Aires o ce (see above). Low-priced
lodging is non-existent. If you are in a group, the most
affordable places are the self-catering apartments known as
“dormy houses”: Laquir, Lihuén, Milla and Payén cost around
AR$800/night and accommodate up to five people.
José Hostel T 0260 15 460 0962, E josehostel@yahoo
.com. The closest hostel to Las Leñas, 18km away in Los
Molles. The owner, a ski-patroller, runs a tight ship, with
two large dorm rooms, a kitchen, wine bar, fireplace, TV
lounge, book exchange and wi-fi. The dorm price in cluding
transport to and from Las Leñas is AR$165. Dorms AR$95

EATING AND DRINKING
Innsbruck A log cabin confitería in the ski village where
you can buy expensive fast food (a steak is AR$75) to enjoy
over a beer from a terrace with piste views. Open for
breakfast, lunch and dinner, as well as cocktails until the
small hours.
El Refugio In the central Pirámide building T 0260 447
1100 ext 1134. Dip into cheese fondue (AR$130) at this
pricey French restaurant. Reservations necessary. Daily
8.30pm-midnight.
UFO Point The appetizing pizzas served here have earned
this restaurant a devoted following, but at around AR$90
(serves two), they're not cheap. The restaurant is open for
breakfast, lunch and dinner; at night it turns into a club
with electronic music.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus Malargüe's bus terminal ( T 0260 447 0690) is on
Esquibel Aldao, at Fray Luis Beltrán, four blocks south and
two west of Plaza San Martín.
Destinations Mendoza (3 daily; 5hr); San Rafael (3 daily; 2hr
30min); Las Leñas (1 daily during ski season; 1hr 30min).

INFORMAT ION AND TOURS
Tourist information The tourist o ce (daily 8am-
10pm; T 0260 447 1659, W malargue.gov.ar) is on the
RN40 four blocks north of the plaza.
Tour operators Many local companies run tours to La
Payunia, Laguna de Llancanelo and Caverna de las Brujas,
as well as horseriding and other adventure activities. Check
out Karen Travel at Av San Martín 54 ( T 0260 447 0342,
W karentravel.com.ar), where you can also rent 4WDs.

MALARGÜE
Set at the arid base of the Andes,
186km southwest of San Rafael,
MALARGÜE is a small, nondescript town
that's a jumping-off point for some of
Argentina's most remarkable scenery. In
winter its raison d'être is as an affordable
base for skiing at the resort of Las Leñas
(see opposite), while in summer the
surrounding landscape offers ample
opportunities for hiking, horseriding,
fishing and white-water rafting.
Worthwhile day-trips from town are to
the underground limestone caves of
Caverna de las Brujas (73km southwest),

ACCOMMODAT ION
Malargüe has plenty of affordable places to stay, including
a handful of well-run hostels. Prices rise significantly
during the winter, when Malargüe becomes a popular
base for skiing at Las Leñas. Some Malargüe hotels offer
fifty percent discounts on Las Leñas ski-lift tickets if you
stay in town.
Cabañas Newen Mapu Av Roca, at Villa del Milagro
T 0260 447 2318, W newenmapu.com. Buy yourself some
space with a two-storey cabaña (sleeps 6) complete with
cable TV, full kitchen, fireplace a nd moun tain views. Prices
halve in the low season. Cabaña AR$850
Camping Polideportivo Capdevila, at Aldao T 0260
447 0691. This municipal campsite is conveniently located
in the north part of town, but is open summer only. AR$28