Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
at the time of publication.) Trellises can still be excellent choices for home
and market apple orchards, however, and they make attractive fences for
landscapes.
The objective is to develop more-or-less permanent scaffold limbs. The
scaffold limbs are tied to horizontal trellis wires and can be horizontal or
angled upward. The trunks can be vertical or slanted. The high-density
double leader pear system is a modification of the trellis design.
For trellis systems, it's best to use the more-dwarfing rootstocks to pre-
vent unwanted vigor, but avoid the extreme-dwarfing M27, P22, and V3 root-
stocks. Apple rootstocks Bud9, M9, M26, Geneva G11, P22, Vineland V2 and
V7, and Ranetka crab apple work well. Pears are more easily trained to trel-
lises than are apples, and OHxF 40, 69, and 217 rootstocks are adequate. In
warm, dry climates where fire blight and cold injury are not problems, quince
rootstocks provide greater dwarfing for pears.
Installing trellises.
Install the trellis posts before planting your trees; you
can install the wires after the trees are planted. Use strong end posts, and
space posts every 25 feet within rows. Brace the end posts to prevent them
from tipping inward. For trellises longer than 50 feet, it is best to use high-
tensile wire. Adjustable ratchets can be used to keep the wires tight. Remem-
ber that most of the weight of the fruit crop will be borne by the wires and
posts. The same techniques are used for wire-supported axis and spindle sys-
tems. The heights of the wires can be adjusted to meet your needs, but it is
common to have three to five wire designs that are 5 to 7 feet tall. Use taller
trellises for higher yields. Trees are typically spaced 3 to 6 feet apart, and
rows are typically spaced 10 to 11 feet apart.
FIGURE 12.11
Methods of Training an Apple or Pear Tree to a Trellis
Trees are trained to a trellis using one of the following designs. Trellises range
from about 3 to 10 feet tall.
