Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
Bypass or scissor-type pruners are less likely to crush stems and usually
make cleaner cuts than do anvil shears. These pruners allow you to make
clean cuts very close to the trunk, speeding the healing process. They may
or may not have a ratchet device to provide a mechanical advantage during
especially thick or difficult cuts (up to
4
inch in diameter), but they gener-
3
ally require less effort than anvil shears to make the same cut. Better-quality
pruners often have replaceable blades and other parts. Given equal-quality
construction, bypass designs are generally better for orchard work than an-
vil styles.
Loppers. These are long-handled pruners used for large cuts (up to 1 ⁄ 2
1
inches in diameter). They come with either anvil or bypass cutting edges,
and the blades are sometimes replaceable. Handles can be hollow metal,
wood, or fiberglass. Wood and fiberglass handles are generally quite durable,
and high-quality aluminum- and steel-handled pruners can be very durable.
The handles on cheap pruners, however, often bend easily. Loppers come in
lengths of about 12 to 48 inches, and short loppers can often be used in place
of hand pruners. Their longer handles and two-handed grip reduce hand fa-
tigue and allow you to make cuts with less effort.
Pruningsaws. These saws have narrow blades with coarse teeth that are de-
signed to cut on the “pull” stroke. Both straight and curved blades are avail-
able. Saws may be fixed into one piece or can fold, which makes them very
convenient to carry when you are pruning many trees. Wooden-handled fold-
ing saws are generally more durable than those with plastic handles. Saws
may also be fixed onto long poles for taller trees, often with a hook and pru-
ner head that is operated by pulling a rope. It can be difficult to make clean,
accurate cuts with pole saws and rope-operated pruners, so take great care.
Chain saws. Chain saws are used to remove trees entirely and to make large
cuts. They are often used to head back large limbs in preparation for cleft
or bark grafting in a process called topworking. Use topworking to replace
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