Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Mindanao
Mindanao, the massive island at the foot of the Philippine archipelago, is in
many ways the cultural heart of the country, a place where indigenous tribes
still farm their ancient homelands and Christians live alongside Muslims who
first settled here in the fourteenth century. Spanish rule came late to much of
the island, and was tenuous at best throughout the nineteenth century;
when the Americans occupied the islands, it was here that they met their
most bitter resistance. Today the island remains a conflict zone, with
countless bomb attacks and a full-scale coup in 2013, and in spite of a peace
pact between the MILF rebels and the government early in 2014, caution is
advised for travel anywhere on the island, and certain parts should be
avoided altogether. All of this said, most visits to Mindanao are trouble-free,
and much of the island is peaceful, friendly and stunningly beautiful.
North Mindanao, which sees the most tourist activity, is comparatively safe, although
the lively gateway city of
Cagayan de Oro
(CDO) in the centre was the site of a bomb
attack in 2013. Highlights include
Siargao Island
, famous for surfing, and
Camiguin
,
a ravishing volcanic island off the north coast. The untouched
Agusan Marsh Wildlife
Sanctuary
is inhabited by the Manobo tribe, while to the east are the hypnotic azure
waters of the
Enchanted River
. Also worth exploring are the western cities of
Iligan
and
Dapitan
(where national hero José Rizal was sent into exile), and
Mount Malindang
National Park
, a little-known area of dense rainforest near Ozamiz.
In the south,
Davao
, the island's de facto capital, is a friendly provincial metropolis
with excellent restaurants and nightlife. Nearby are the beaches of
Samal Island
and
majestic
Mount Apo
. West of the frenetic city of
General Santos
, around the shores of
Lake Sebu
, the friendly and artistic
T'boli
people still live in traditional wooden houses
and wear hand-woven tribal garments and adornments.
Much of western Mindanao is part of the
Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao
,
or ARMM, an area of huge tourism potential but with the security situation in a state
of flux. Highlights include the traditional Muslim city of
Marawi
, which stands on the
northern shore of serene
Lake Lanao
, and the hundreds of islands that make up the
spectacular
Sulu archipelago
, especially Tawi-Tawi. You'll need to check the current
security
situation before considering a visit.
8
Northern Mindanao
Some of the most accessible (and safest) parts of Mindanao lie along the
north coast
,
starting with the inviting city of
Cagayan de Oro
. The northwest coast stretching from
Iligan
to
Dipolog
is mostly rural and undeveloped, but peppered with alluring port
towns and national parks, while the pint-sized island of
Camiguin
to the northeast is
The Mindanao problem
p.403
Ultralight flights
p.404
Rafting the Cagayan de Oro River
p.406
José Rizal in Dapitan
p.411
Siargao island-hopping
p.418
Family fun at Ma-a
p.423
Diving and snorkelling around Davao
p.426
ARMM travel advice
p.433
