Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
river. Languid
monitor lizards
often congregate near the rangers' hut, while macaque
monkeys hang out in the trees, looking to grab any loose snacks - don't feed them
(or the lizards). Your boatman will point out the rock formations and wildlife inside
(there are more than four hundred thousand bats) including the 62m high “
Cathedral
”,
a vast chamber that soars into the darkness and contains stalactites that resemble Mary,
Jesus and friends.
Visitors get to see just 1.5km of the caves (45min); you can travel up to 4.3km into
the system, but you'll need to arrange a special permit three days in advance.
Afterwards, if you're feeling energetic, you can hike back from the mouth of the river to
Sabang, a 5km trip through lush scenery, though this is steep and sometimes slippery,
especially after rain.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION THE UNDERGROUND RIVER
The Underground River is extremely popular, and the
daily quota
of nine hundred visitors is reached every day during
peak season (Nov-May) - make sure you plan your visit ahead of time.
7
Permits
Permits (P250) can be arranged at the park o
ce
in the City Coliseum in San Pedro, Puerto Princesa (
T
048
723 0904), at least one day in advance. If you join an
organized tour (see below) this will be done for you, but
it's easy enough to arrange. It's best to secure a permit for
8am-9am (before the day-trippers arrive), but even if
you're issued a different time you can just turn up at the
wharf, show your permit and pay the P40 terminal fee -
they'll probably put you on the next boat that has space. If
you haven't pre-organized a permit in Puerto Princesa,
local agents in Sabang (try
Green Verde
's travel centre) can
make the necessary arrangements up until 8pm the day
before you want to go.
By boat
Your permit will specify the time you need to
report to Sabang wharf for the 20min bangka ride (P700
for up to six) to the cave. Boat trips start daily at 8am and
the last boat leaves at 3.30pm.
By van
Renting a whole van for a day-trip to the Under-
ground River will cost at least P3500.
Tours
Day-tours from Puerto Princesa to the Underground
River cost P1500/person, departing at around 7.30am, and
including all fees, a basic lunch buffet on Sabang Beach and
a short time for swimming. If you want to stay on in Sabang
they'll drop you off after the tour.
Port Barton and around
On the northwest coast of Palawan, roughly halfway between Puerto Princesa and
El Nido,
PORT BARTON
is far less developed than either of its busier rivals. The streets
are all dirt tracks, there are no day-trippers and the rhythms of Filipino life go on
largely undisturbed by the small groups of travellers lounging around in the handful of
budget beach hotels. The hotels face crescent-shaped
Pagdanan Bay
, with its magical
sunset views -
Port Barton Beach
itself, a gorgeous strip of sugary sand, is fine for a
quick swim, but the water is often cloudy (especially after rain). Minutes away are
fourteen pristine white sand islands, a number of top-notch dive and snorkelling sites
and even a couple of waterfalls;
diving
trips can be arranged by Palawan Easy Dive
(starting at around P2000;
W
portbarton.info/padi) at the far southern end of the
beach. Note that
electricity
is usually available between 6pm and midnight only in
Port Barton and there are no banks.
Pagdanan Bay
You can rent a bangka from Port Barton for a day of island-hopping in
Pagdanan Bay
,
aka Port Barton Marine Park. Popular targets include the spectacular coral reefs at
Twin Rocks
and
Aquarium Reef
(both a few minutes' ride from Port Barton); the former
in particular offers vast banks of hard coral, including plenty of spiny staghorn, and
hordes of tropical fish. The bay islands themselves are traditional desert island types
where you can swim or just chill out. Most trips take in the beach at
Exotic Island
,
which you'll usually have to yourself. The island is being developed as a cashew nut
farm, but the beach is open to the public, and you can wade across the narrow sand bar
to
Albaguen Island
, which has accommodation.
