Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
SORCERORS ON SIQUIJOR
Every Good Friday herbalists from around Siquijor and from the rest of the Visayas and Mindanao
gather in
San Antonio
, in Siquijor's pea-green hinterlands, to prepare potions made from tree
bark, roots, herbs and insects. The culmination of this annual Conference of Sorcerers and Healers
- now rebranded the
Folk Healing Festival
because it sounds less menacing - is the mixing of a
mother-of-all potions in a large cauldron. As the mixture is stirred, participants gather in a circle
and mumble incantations said to imbue it with extraordinary healing powers (the ceremony takes
place on Good Friday in the belief that on Christ's day of death, supernatural forces are free to
wander the earth). It's evidently a strong brew, with wide-ranging powers that include provoking
a good harvest, securing a spouse or getting rid of that troublesome zit. The festival attracts
spiritualists and tourists from across the Philippines and beyond - be sure to book your
accommodation long in advance if you plan to visit.
6
number of resorts have certified
dive operators
who will take you on trips to places
such as Sandugan Point and Tambisan Point, both known for their coral and abundant
marine life. At Paliton Beach there are three submarine caves where you can see
sleeping reef sharks and at Salag-Doong Beach, on the eastern side of the island, divers
have occasionally reported seeing manta rays and shoals of barracuda. Further afield
but still within easy reach, Apo Island (see p.320) is another dive favourite, and is
worth a visit even if you stay above water.
Siquijor Town
SIQUIJOR TOWN
is a likeable enough place though without anything to keep you there
for long. There is an atmospheric eighteenth-century church on the seafront, the
Church of St Francis of Assisi
, which was built in 1783 partly from coral. You can climb
its bell tower for views across the town and out to sea.
The west coast
Twenty minutes west of Siquijor you come to beautiful and undeveloped
Paliton Beach
,
1km down a bumpy track from the main road (take the turn-off at the church in
Paliton Town), but well worth the journey. A west-facing cove of sugary-white sand,
Paliton is sheltered from big waves by the promontory of
Tambisan Point
, and has
views of tropical sunsets you'll never forget.
A few kilometres further south, the small town of
SAN JUAN
has an unusual focal
point: the sulphurous
San Juan de Capilay Lake
, where locals gather (especially at
weekends) to wallow in the eggy water, said to have miraculous healing qualities. For
more energetic activity, try the scenic but strenuous trek from San Juan along a jungled
trail to San Antonio.
The east coast
Siquijor's picturesque east coast is a rural littoral of sun-bleached barangays and hidden
coves, some of the most secluded around
Kagusua Beach
, reached through
Minalonan
and then the sleepy little fishing village of
Kagusua
. There's a sealed road from the
village to the edge of a low cliff, where steps take you down to the sand and a series of
immaculate little sandy inlets. To proceed north from Kagusua you'll have to backtrack
to the coastal road at Minalonan, where you can catch a jeepney through
Maria
and on
to
Salagdoong
, which has a resort popular with locals at weekends. For Salagdoong
Beach, look out for the signposted turning about 6km north of Maria. You can walk it
in about twenty minutes from the main road.
CAMBUGHAY FALLS
P.304
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