Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WHALE SHARKS IN DONSOL
Known locally as the
butanding
, the
whale shark
is a timid titan resembling a whale
more than the shark it is. It can grow up to 20m in length, making it the largest fish in
existence. These gentle giants gather around Donsol every year, around the time of the
northeastern monsoon, to feed on the rich shrimp and plankton streams that flow from
the Donsol River into the sea, sucking their food through their gills via an enormous
vacuum of a mouth.
Whale sharks were rarely hunted in the Philippines until the 1990s, when demand for their
meat from countries such as Taiwan and Japan escalated. Cooks have dubbed it the “tofu
shark” because of the meat's resemblance to soybean curd. Its fins are also coveted as a soup
extender. Tragically, this has led to its near extinction in the Visayas and further south in
Mindanao. In Donsol, however, where the creatures are protected, attitudes seem to be
changing, with locals realizing that whale sharks can be worth more alive than dead, attracting
tourists and thus investment and jobs.
WHALE SHARK WATCHING
At the Donsol Visitor Centre (see p.223) you can complete all the formalities for
renting a
boat
for a whale shark-watching trip. Boats cost P3500 for up to six people, and there's a
registration fee of P300 for foreigners (P100 for Filipinos). In peak season, especially at
weekends, queues can start to form before the centre opens, so arrive early.
Before boarding you will need to watch a video briefing in which a
Butanding Interaction
O
cer
(BIO) explains how to behave in the water near a whale shark. The number of
snorkellers around any one shark is limited to six; flash photography is not allowed, nor is
scuba gear; and the animal's tail should be avoided as it can do serious damage. Some
boatmen flout these rules in order to keep their passengers happy, but this risks distressing
the whale sharks and should not be encouraged. Check, too, that your boat has one of the
mandatory propeller guards.
Snorkelling equipment
can be rented from outside the visitor centre (P150 for mask and
snorkel plus P150 for flippers). Each boat has a crew of three, the captain, the BIO and the
spotter, each of whom would welcome a token of your appreciation. All this makes it an
expensive day out by Philippine standards, but take heart from the fact that your money is
helping the conservation effort. Take plenty of protection against the sun and a good book.
Once a whale shark has been sighted you'll need to get your mask, snorkel and flippers on and
get in the water before it dives too deep to be seen.
4
DONSOL TOWN
Aguluz
San José St
T
0918 942 0897 or
T
0917 514
5905,
W
donsolaguluzhomestay.com.
Run by an affable
woman, this welcoming homestay with lovely
narra
wood
floors offers impeccably clean rooms with either private or
shared bath. Guests can make full use of the well-equipped
kitchen, and the
owner w
ill rustle up meals upon request.
Wi-fi is available.
P1700
★
RESORTS
AGM
T
0919 688 2264 or
T
0906 368 7805,
W
agm
resort.com.
The first resort you come to on the strip, with
two rows of cl
ean and
tidy a/c concrete rooms with hot and
cold showers.
P2200
Elysia
T
0917 547 4466 or
T
0926 475 9762,
W
elysia
-donsol.com.
This Korean-owned place is the most
upmarket choice along the strip, with minimalist decor,
bamboo beds and wooden loungers by the pool. There are
a few hammocks slung along the beach and a restaurant
serving Filipino and Italian dishes. The resort accepts credit
cards,
and US dollars and euros can also be exchanged.
P3150
Vitton
T
0927 912 6313,
W
whalesharksphilippines
.com.
One of the area's best resorts, with clean and
spacious rooms, most with private veranda. The restaurant
serves good international food, and attracts non-guests,
too. The
Woodland Beach Resort
next door, owned by the
same people,
offers “
backpacker rooms” sleeping three for
P500/person.
P2200
Donsoleña
Capobres St
T
0928 508 3415,
W
donsolena.com.
This wonderful homestay in a quiet
residential neighbourhood is more of a chic B&B, with
polished hardwood floors and tasteful rooms furnished
in native materials. There's a spaciou
s terrac
e overlooking
the rice paddies, and a guest kitchen.
P2000
Giddy's Place
54 Clemente St
T
0917 848 8851,
W
giddysplace.com.
Accommodation in a pink building -
standard rooms are at the back by the pool, while the larger
deluxe rooms (P3360) are at the front. All have kettle,
fridge and TV and there's wi-fi thro
ughou
t. Attached dive
shop and restaurant (see opposite).
P2800
