Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
around a rectangular plaza with the municipal buildings and church on the north
side and the sea to the south.
Around the island
Most organized tours start by heading south from Basco along the coastal road to the
Batanes Resort
(see p.188), before turning left up a narrow road to an abandoned
weather station called
Radar Tukon
. This can also be done on foot as a day hike: it's
about an hour from Basco and from here the whole island is spread at your feet.
Beyond the weather station is the swanky
Fundacion Pacita
hotel (see p.188), and some
tunnels nearby created by the Japanese army during World War II.
After heading back to the coastal road you can return to Basco, or continue south
through the pretty old Spanish village of
Mahatao
and on to
Ivana
(“Ih-va-na”), with
its eye-catching yellow church, where ferries set off to Sabtang. Just opposite the church
is the pier for ferries to Sabtang Island. In Ivana you will also find
Dakay's House
, the
oldest stone house in Batanes, built in 1887. Although it is inhabited, you are welcome
to poke your head in to take a look at the interior, which has beautiful wooden floors
traditionally polished with banana leaves.
The coastal road round the southern end of the island brings you to the village of
Uyugan
before turning north to
Song Song
, where you can see the remains of stone
houses that were washed away by a tidal wave. After Itbud there is a turning inland
and uphill taking you through
Rakuh-a-Payaman
(known to tourists as “Marlboro
Country”), elevated pastures inhabited by Ivatan bulls and horses, grazing against the
backdrop of Mount Iraya and the Pacific Ocean.
After passing through the pastures you can either return to Mahatao (and from
there to Basco) or continue to
Diura
, a small fishing village where visitors are
required to register (P50) before proceeding to the nearby Spring of Youth, a
twenty-minute walk away. Here there's a wonderful stone pool perfect for a
refreshing dip, with spectacular views over the ocean and Mount Iraya. There's no
route for vehicles up the coast from Diura so unless you're hiking you'll need to
head back to Basco via Mahatao.
3
Sabtang Island
Don't miss the opportunity to spend at least a day exploring
Sabtang Island
, a peaceful
place dotted with Ivatan stone villages where life seems to have altered little in a
hundred years. Ferries arrive in the port on the island's northeast coast, in the
Centro
area, where there's a Spanish church, a school and a few houses.
You can do a circuit of the island on foot, but with a vehicle it's necessary to
double back and visit the eastern and western parts of the island separately. You
could start by heading south from the port to
Chavayan
, about 10km away. On the
way there are the remains of a fortress (
idjang
) that stands high on a hill; it served as
a lookout point for the Ivatan to defend themselves from approaching invaders, as
well as to monitor marine migration patterns. The path is steep in places, so take it
slowly. Chavayan itself has some of the island's best-preserved traditional homes and
a small chapel, as well as the Sabtang Weavers' Association, where you can purchase
artefacts as well as enjoy fresh coconut and home-made biscuits prepared by
members of the association.
From Centro you can also walk 9km to
Sumnanga
, passing through the tiny
village of
Nakanmuan
, with a few traditional houses. About 3km further along is
the fishing village of Sumnanga, home to the lovely Devuk Bay. From here you
may be able to rent a boat (around P500) to visit Ivujos Island - it's inhabited only
by grazing cows. From Sumnanga you can hop on a scooter or tricycle (P250) to
return to Centro.
