MOLOKA‘I - Maui: Including Molokai and Lanai - page 579

HIKING
Topside
Bathed in the scent of eucalyptus and pine, the “topside” of central Moloka'i is where you
truly feel as if you're in the mountains. With trails ranging in elevation from 1,500 to 4,000
feet, the air is cooler up here, and once you enter the Kamakou Preserve, the weather turns
wetter and the surroundings lush. Songs of the native i'iwi birds ring from the treetops
while mists hang in the silence of deeply carved valleys. This is where Moloka'i gets wild.
KALAUPAPA OVERLOOK
The easiest walk is the 1,500-foot paved walkway leading to the Kalaupapa Overlook
starting at the end of the road in Pala'au State Park. Take Highway 470 past the mule barn
for the Kalaupapa trail rides and continue until it dead-ends in a parking lot. Here you'll
find some basic restrooms but no potable water. Be prepared for high winds that can blow
your hat off, and get your camera ready for a view of the Kalaupapa Peninsula which is
the best you're going to find short of actually hiking down there. At the end of the walk-
way you'll notice some trails leading through the pine needles and paralleling the cliff. The
combination of loose needles, high winds, and steep cliffs make for dangerous, uncertain
footing that isn't worth the reward.
KALAUPAPA TRAIL
The Kalaupapa Trail is the most popular hike on Moloka'i. Descending over 1,700 vertic-
al feet over the course of 3.2 miles and 26 switchbacking turns, this trail was hand-carved
into the mountain in 1886 by Portuguese immigrant Manuel Farinha as a way to estab-
lish a land connection with the residents living topside. The trail today remains in good
shape, although you do need to be physically fit and keep a keen eye out for the “presents”
left on the trail by mules. Since this is part of the National Historic Park, reservations are
required to tour the peninsula, and those who try to sneak into Kalaupapa could end up
facing possible prosecution. Those wanting to hike the trail instead of riding a mule can
contact Damien Tours (808/567-6171), which, for the cost of $50/person, will meet hikers
at the bottom of the trail at 10am and provide a four-hour guided tour of the Kalaupapa
Peninsula. To reach the trailhead, drive 200 yards past the mule barn on Highway 470 and
park on the right side of the road.